Article in 1939 Jewelers Circular Keystone Issue 109 No. 11 August 1939, and No. 12, by Charles A Mealy
 |
| A recent photograph of Maj. W. W. Crosby, now living in Coronado, Cal., who in 1910-11 wore the first metal wrist watch attachment. |
Who was the first person in the United States to wear a, wrist watch? This question perhaps will never be answered accurately, but it is a safe bet that it was someone from Europe who landed here with nerve enough to chance our derision and snickers upon seeing such a silly idea. The first person in America to wear a watch on the wrist for utilitarian purposes probably was a nurse. Hers was not a complete wrist watch, but an ordinary "O"-size watch made for wear on a chatelaine pin, sautoir chain or guard chain, which was worn in the first wrist watch attachment. This attachment was the all-leather "cup" or pouch, with a strap on opposite sides for securing the watch to the wrist. Only the dial, stem and bow of the watch were visible. According to available information, the first American-made watch to be worn on the wrist in other than the original all-leather "cup strap" was owned by Maj. W. W. Crosby (right), a former city engineer of Baltimore, Md., and an officer in the National Guard. It was in the winter of 1910-1911 that Major Crosby, wearing a 12-size pocket watch in an all-leather cup-style wrist strap, visited the retail jewelry store of John W. Mealy & Sons Co. in Baltimore.
To J. S. Murphy, watchmaker, he said, "Why doesn't someone invent something other than this clumsy leather cup strap (above) for holding a watch to the wrist?" Watchmaker Murphy answered, "Come back in two days. I'll have something," without the slightest notion of what that "something" would be. In two days, made by hand, the first metal watch attachment resulted (above), and soon thereafter a basic patent for it was obtained. This was the "Duo" watch holder, which, when afterward improved, was sold as the "Victor" watch holder by the Mealy Mfg. Co.. of Baltimore, Md. When this watch holder originally was offered to wholesale jewelers they laughed and said no one ever asked for anything of the kind and, therefore, they would not buy. Retail jewelers everywhere purchased these holders, but not without first voicing their opinion that the idea of even a woman wearing a watch on the wrist was absurd. In some cases the new watch holder could only be sold to the retailer by the salesman's acceptance of the dealer's bet that even should the wrist watch become a fad among women, the fad would die in six months. The idea of a man wearing a watch on the wrist did not exist.
The first wholesaler to buy the “Duo” watch holder was D. C. Percival & Co. of Boston. On the occasion of the first showing on Maiden Lane of this watch attachment by Charles A. Mealy there was much curiosity, and the device was the subject of so much gossip “on the Lane” that Mr. Mealy was approached by a stranger who stated that Charles W. Harman, of Joseph Fahys Watch Case Co., wanted to see this much talked of attachment. Upon seeing it, Mr. Harmon stated, “its sale will prove the outstanding influence toward the adoption of the complete wrist watch by American women.” Those who are familiar with the rapid acceptance and large sales of the improved Victor watch holder and bracelet attached will, no doubt, concede the correctness of Mr. Harmon’s prediction.
At that time no cases for wrist watches were made in the United States. The vogue was for wear on a chatelaine pin, a guard chain reaching to the shirtwaist belt, and later for wear on a sautoir chain. There were no metal watch bracelets, and even the first metal watch holders were secured to the wrist by straps made by C. J. Rumpp & Sons.
Almost simultaneously with the introduction of the metal watch holder, a few imported diamond wrist watches were to be seen, but only in the ultra retail stores of America’s largest cities. Only the rich faddists could afford these first wrist watches, and there were few takers. Even these retailers were skeptical.
The first wrist watch advertisement to appear in The Jewelers’ Circular was in November, 1911, by the New England Watch Co., of Waterbury, Conn. It was fitted into a strap and was described as “suitable for soldiers and sailors.” (below)
In the Spring of 1912 the first metal bracelets for wrist watches were released. In quick succession advertisements of American and Swiss wrist watches appeared. These were “for ladies only.” They were round and large, compared to present day sizes. The metal expanding bracelet was riveted to opposite sides of the case. The bracelet had six or more links. Inside each link was a coiled spring.
The first all metal watch bracelets were made by John T. Mauran Mfg. Co. of Providence and Untermeyer Robbins Co. of New York. These were quickly followed by similar bracelets made by Ostby & Barton Co. of Providence. D. F. Briggs Co. adapted its “Carmen” expanding bracelet for watch use, and S. O. Bigney Co. introduced a wide expanding chain watch bracelet.
Imports of smaller round Swiss wrist watches and the production of smaller American movements became popular. Narrow expanding watch bracelets were needed for these smaller watches and the prospective great demand made it feasible for factories to make substantial expenditures for the production of larger quantities of narrow bracelets at lower prices. Among the pioneers dominating the narrow expanding watch bracelet business were R. F. Simmons Co., Bugbee & Niles Co. and J. F. Sturdy’s Sons Co. All wrist watch cases and bracelets were natural karat gold or gold filled.
The Hadley Co. made the first expanding link watch bracelet entirely by mechanical means, without the use of solder. Although among the pioneers in making watch bracelets, the Hadley product originally was sold only to other jewelry manufacturers and therefore was not known as a Hadley product until 1921, when the Hadley Co. started to sell directly to the wholesale trade.
Narrow bracelets with hook ends also became standard equipment for Victor watch holders, which enjoyed popularity because a woman could still wear her old watch on a chain or snap it into the holder for wrist wear.
In 1912 the Waltham Watch Co., in order to cater to both the wrist watch and the chatelaine watch demand, introduced the “convertible” style. The case had a small “club” —(card term) shaped bow straddling the crown. At the opposite side of the case was a disappearing lug or eyelet which, if the watch was to be worn on a pin or chain, could be folded into a recess in the case, or, if opened, it provided the means for snapping on one hook end of the narrow expanding bracelet. The other hook end of the bracelet was snapped onto the bow of the watch. This is the origin of the term “convertible,” still used to describe a certain kind of bracelet end, although “convertible” watch cases have not been in production since about 1917, owing to the popularity of the watch ribbon which required wide lugs or hangers on watch cases.
The Wadsworth Watch Case Co. advertised a wrist watch case fitted with an expansion bracelet — but still the wrist watch was “only a fad,” as is attested by the following excerpt from a Wadsworth advertisement in a May 1912 issue of The Jewelers’ Circular:
“Bracelet watches a fad of the period. There is a swing just now toward bracelet watches. It promises to be an exceptionally good bracelet watch year. Probably the most convenient of all watches for women who are minus pockets.”
With the advent of the watch ribbon and the proof, by sales, that the wrist watch was not a fad, the original metal watch holder died a natural death.
The styling and casing by Jacques Depollier & Son of American watches and their distribution of the completed product was outstanding in the early era of the American-made wrist watch.
What about the man’s wrist watch?
Except for a few rarely seen male ultra faddists who dared to wear a wrist watch purchased abroad, there were no wrist watches of genteel appearance or quality worn by men in this country until 1917. Prior to this a few large low-priced strap watches were worn by sportsmen, but for the most part these originally were sold by hardware or sporting goods dealers.
In 1913 probably not one jeweler in the United States would have wagered 1 to 25 that American men would ever become so “‘sissified’’ as to adopt the wrist watch for daily wear.
The first advertisement of a complete wrist watch in The Jewelers’ Circular was in the issue of Sept. 6, 1911, and, contrary to popular belief, it was a strap watch and was advertised for men only. The advertisement was directed specifically “for soldiers and sailors,” although it appeared three years before the outbreak of the World War and six years before our entry into it.
A further point of interest is that when the ladies’ wrist watch became the most talked of fad in 1912, the same watch that had been advertised for soldiers and sailors was fitted with a metal expansion bracelet for women’s use. It went over for women, though it failed to win popularity among men.
This country’s entrance into the World War immediately created a demand for good wrist watches for the Army officers, because officers of foreign armies were thus equipped. The rank and file soon followed suit, and suddenly several million men became potential customers for a wrist watch. This fact, later, accounted for a two- to three-year retarding of the acceptance of the wrist watch by the man in the street, because production to meet the tremendous demand from the armed forces had been so hurried that in the main wrist watches sold to men in the American army were discarded as unsatisfactory and impractical.
The wrist watch would surely, but slowly, have been generally accepted by men in the United States regardless of the War, but the impetus to sales of men’s wrist watches because of the War proved a temporary boomerang, when several hundred thousand dissatisfied users of the inferior timepieces returned to civil life from military service. This resulted in lean sales of men’s wrist watches between 1918 and 1925, but after that time confidence was restored due to the superior merit and performance of better-made strap watches.
To the question “What creates and maintains maximum sales of wrist watch attachments?” the abstract answer is, “The same methods by which generally increasing volume has been obtained in the sale of automobiles, radios, cash registers, and business machines.”
The actual answer is, “Constant improvements and major style changes at sufficiently frequent intervals to create consumer demand for something new, long before the prior model has been worn for the duration of its normal life.”
The manufacturers of wrist watch attachments have constantly improved them, but until the beginning of 1938 not one major style change had been introduced or attempted during the previous seven years; whereas, prior to 1931 a distinctly new style was introduced at intervals averaging every two to two and a half years since 1910.
Why is it that metal wrist watch attachment sales, although of interesting proportions since 1931, have not since then enjoyed the increase in volume or consumer interest such as prevailed prior to 1931? Some will answer: (a) “Depression”; others, (b) “Cords and straps are selling,” or (c) “So many new watches now come complete with metal attachments.” But these are neither individually nor collectively the reason.
Re answer (a), “Depression.”—-The automobile industry, by introducing new designs and features, reached its greatest production volume during depression. The watch attachment makers waited “seven long years” before introducing a major style change.
Re answer (b), “Cords and straps are selling.”—The metal expansible watch bracelet preceded the silk watch ribbon. Yet within one year after the watch companies adopted ribbons as standard equipment, the all-metal mesh watch attachment was popularly accepted and sold by jewelers everywhere to displace the ribbon that “came with the watch” as sold by factories or importers. Result—an extra sale.
The same opportunity is now at hand; namely, re place cords with metal bracelets of design or style radically different from those in use prior to the introduction of the silk cord. Don’t expect to revive consumer interest in metal bracelets by offering the same types of bracelets which the public forsook for the silk cord.
The present populari for men’s wrist watches has given the jeweler a unit sale of from 50 cents to $1.50, instead of the higher unit sale of a metal band. This has materially reduced the total sales of metal attachments for manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers. The leather strap, you will remember, was the original and only attachment for a man’s wrist watch—and was superseded by the metal band, starting in 1929.
The revival of the strap, however, was not due to a style cycle, but rather to the unsatisfactory service rendered by gold filled men’s bands prior to the perfection of the now-available “non-corrosive base.”
Had a distinct style change in men’s wrist bands been introduced simultaneously with the “non-corrosive base,” the popular return to the leather strap would not have occurred. The male public and better jewelers, having been dissatisfied due to the unpreventable corrosion of even the finest grades of gold filled metal bands with the corrosive base, were offered exactly the same style metal attachments when the “non-corrosive base” was introduced about five years ago.
As performance in actual use was the only proof that the new metal band would not corrode. there was natural skepticism. The more affluent males would not buy the new bands regardless of the manufacturers’ “non-corrosive” claim. The better retailers, rather than chance the loss of a customer by furnishing exactly the same style band as had given little satisfaction prior to the introduction of the non-corrosive base. started to push leather straps.
Re answer (c), “So many new watches now come complete with metal bands.’—True. Since 1931 many new watches have been and are equipped with metal attachments as a complete unit for dealer purchase, but since the advance in the price of gold, the tendency has been more toward the use of cords and straps especially by the makers and importers of the better grades of watches; hence the opportunity for selling better all-metal bands as replacements.
The makers and importers of better watches have influenced the trend toward leather straps by either discontinuing or diminishing the use of the metal band as standard equipment for men’s wrist watches. This fact creates an ideal condition to be capitalized by the retail jeweler for the sale of fine gold-filled men’s bands, because the “non-corrosive base” is now not only a feature of most all makes of wrist watch attachments but also because these are available in radically different styles than those that did not give satisfaction. Among these is the new flexible watch strap.
The present sale of separate high or low grade metal attachments is trivial compared to the potential sales possibilities and will so continue until the jewelers’ stock of separate all-metal attachments predominates in styles that are not in general use by watch factories or by importers in assembling their own complete boxed units.
Why should the consumer throw away a perfectly good watch bracelet that came on the new watch and buy another bracelet merely because the links of those in the jeweler’s stock happen to be a different shape from the links on the bracelet that came with the watch? There is no sane reason why the jeweler should expect to sell another “same style” bracelet for the same watch until the one that came on the watch has worn out. On the other hand, the jeweler can reasonably expect to displace many of the original bracelets before they have worn out provided he features watch attachments radically different in style from those he purchases assembled to new watches. Anything new with merit in style or structure is something that appeals to the consumer. Anything old is usually sold only when it is asked for, and automatically becomes classed as a staple. Staple items rarely interest either the dealer or his sales personnel sufficiently to arouse the enthusiasm that is so essential to the creation of sales; that is, something sold that the consumer had no idea of purchasing or sense of needing.
Any really new idea in watch attachments can always be shown without offense to any consumer even though the same customer purchased a watch with bracelet attached only a short time previous; or a new style band can be sold when a new watch is purchased regardless of what older style of attachment the factory or importer furnished with the watch.
The sale of the first metal wrist watch attachment was accomplished solely by suggestion at the watch repair counter of John W. Mealy & Sons Co. in Baltimore, Md. This attachment was not asked for, because not only had the public never seen such a device but were not even aware that a watch could or would be worn on the wrist. The watchmaker in this small jewelry store sold $3,500 worth of this original metal attachment in the first six months. He suggested same for every woman’s bracelet brought for repair or setting.
The watch repair department is still the ideal spot for the constant showing of new style attachments and every customer contacting this department, even if only for the setting of a wrist watch, should not be allowed to depart without having been shown the very latest style attachments without consideration as to the kind or condition of the attachment already on the watch. The stores that sell the most wrist watch attachments constantly pursue this method of suggestion. The vast majority of jewelers, however, have allowed the sameness of watch bracelet styles since 1931 to influence them to treat this item as just another to be sold when asked for or when apparent that the consumer really needs a new one.
Styles will come and go, but only by sensing when the “new” is really a basic change rather than a passing novelty, and by quickly featuring the really “new” in the manner suggested, can a jeweler expect to reap the reward of created sales and avoid the lethargic and costly selling habit that so often accounts for too much out-of-date or dead stock.
It is easy to sense when a style change is really at hand. If one manufacturer introduces it and no other follows suit, the style is either ahead of its time or is a ripple soon to disappear. If other manufacturers follow quickly with copies or adaptations of the same style or features, then the style change is real and every jeweler should promptly feature the new.
One of the best known eastern jewelry firms always has sold more wrist watch attachments than other stores. Their employees constantly suggest new attachments for the watches brought for repair. Should it happen that circumstance prevents the verbal suggestion, the customer receives by mail a form letter acknowledging the repair. Accompanying are priced illustrations of the latest wrist watch attachments. One or more of these are checked as suitable for the customer’s watch, with the suggestion that it can be attached to the watch for delivery when the repair is completed. A prepaid postal card provides convenient means for the customer’s reply. This method is effective provided the suggested attachments are really new and in stock, ready for delivery as promised.
We must focus our attention to the present and future but also be alert to profit by experiences or lessons of the past.
The history of wrist watch attachments is too lengthy to permit covering all details, but to emphasize the cumulative value of their repeatedly created sales due to successive basic style changes, consider the accompanying illustrated sequence of these changes since the days when a watch ribbon was the vogue for women,
Note how often in the past dealers have been able to sell one style band after the other—to the same customer—for the same watch.
Nothing has or will happen to prevent a continuance of these pyramided sales unless it be the manufacturers’ failure to introduce really new styles at sane intervals and the retailers’ failure to sense when an important style change is at hand. Retailers should be alert to enthusiastically feature “the new’’ to replace “the old,” even if the old attachment is still good except for style.
For example, the so-called “convertible” style wrist watch which preceded watches with ribbon lugs. “Convertible” cases were introduced in 1912 and their production was discontinued about 1917, yet so many of these cases have continued in use that practically’ every popular new style band (including even the silk cord) made since 1912 has been made with “convertible ends” to meet a definite and sizeable demand.
The wearers of these discontinued ‘‘convertible” wrist watches have repeatedly adopted every popular new style wrist watch attachment. Even in 1939 (22 years after the manufacture of “convertible” watch cases was discontinued) watch bracelets with “convertible ends” are still demanded in a few sections of the country.
The dates of introduction and duration of respective styles, shown in the accompanying illustrated sequence of basic style changes in wrist watch attachments, are approximate, but the sequence is correct. Note the shorter intervals between style changes before 1930, as compared to the fact that the open link and chain styles prevailed almost without interruption until 1938.
Images that went with the story
How the cumbersome makeshift devices with which wearing the watch on the wrist originated have developed into designs that are both practical and beautiful is clearly shown in the photo to the left, picturing some of the popular items offered for this season by leading manufacturers.
 |
| JCK 1956 |
