Tissot

By Bruce Shawkey

 

Tissot was founded by Charles-Felicien Tissot and his son Charles-Emile. Charles-Felicien, born in 1804, had been a Tissot watchmaker in the Jura region of Switzerland. His son, Charles-Emile, born in 1830,  apprenticed as a watchmaker in his father's workshop beginning at age 12. It must have been in his blood to be a watchmaker because he completed his training very quickly and, in 1848 at the relatively young age of 18, sailed across the ocean to America at the request of an uncle to repair timepieces there.  Quickly becoming excited over the possibility of supplying new markets with timepieces, young Charles-Emile was not content to stay in America repairing other manufacturers' watches. And so five years later, he returned to Switzerland and convinced his father to go into business supplying watches with the family name to the world.

Thus, in 1853, the firm of Ch. F. Tissot & Fils. was born in the city of Le Locle. The father tended to the home fires, overseeing production, while the son handled the marketing.  Over the course of the next 43 years, Charles Emile would undertake no fewer than 52 journeys to North America and Russia. The greater market potential at the time (pre-revolution) was Russia, so Charles Emile concentrated his efforts there. Only one rail line operated during this time, from Moscow to St. Petersburg, so Charles Emile often traveled to the far reaches of Russia by troika, a Russian carriage pulled by a team of three horses. Considering his fragile and precious cargo - consisting of watches bearing not only his family name but other luxury Swiss timepieces including Audemars Piguet - it was a perilous way to travel to say the least! Through the son's industrious efforts and carefully chosen alliances with sales agents, Tissot would eventually earn the prestigious title of “Purveyor to the Tsar's Court.”

In 1873, when Charles Felicien died, his widow watched over the company at home while Charles-Emile continued to travel and develop new markets. By 1883, Charles-Emile brought his son, Charles Tissot, then age 23, into the business. For the next two decades, son and grandson would continue to develop the business and earn awards for their watches in various prestigious competitions throughout Europe, while still concentrating their sales efforts in Russia.

Birth of the wristwatch

As with many manufacturers, we do not know exactly when Tissot began to market wristwatches. Some historians have suggested that Tissot began experimenting with wrist watches as early as 1900. Others say Tissot's first commercially produced wristwatches for women came out in 1911 or '12, with men's wristwatches following in about 1915. The men's watches were classic round shapes, many with a decidedly “military” look as seen on the image to the left.

At this point, I should make a clarification. There is some confusion between Tissot watches and those manufactured by Mathey-Tissot. They are totally different manufacturers, with the latter being founded in 1886 by Edmund Mathey-Tissot. 

Soon after 1915, Tissot came out with a long curved rectangular dress watch (right) that modern-day

collectors refer to as the “Banana Watch.” Originals were fragile and today are scarce. Tissot has, in fact, reproduced this model as part of its “Heritage,” series and is called the Prince. With its “exploding” numerals, it is a very striking watch to this day. I own a copy and it is one of the few watches on which I get compliments from non-collectors, and they are surprised to learn the watch design if more than 100 years old!

Charles-Emile passed away in 1910. At that time, the fourth generation joined the firm when Charles' son, Paul, joined the business. At the relatively young age of 20 years, Paul would soon become instrumental in the company's future. Paul's sister, Marie Tissot, also joined the company during this time (1916) and would become instrumental in her own right as to the company's future.

Things would begin to change radically for Tissot soon enough. The success Tissot had enjoyed in Russia was about to end. With the revolution of 1917, the watch market in Russia virtually collapsed overnight. Tissot would have to find new markets, and their approach to this would be ingenious, as we will soon see. But prior to embarking on a new marketing strategy, Charles, son Paul and daughter Marie first concentrated on the manufacturing process itself. Tissot began producing their own watch movements in their spacious and modern facilities (updated in 1908) to reduce their dependence on ebauches (rough movements) from other manufacturers.

The clear leader to emerge during this time was Paul. His strong personality, along with production improvements, brought him attention from many watch manufacturers, but in particular the Brandt family which owned and operated Omega. The two formed an alliance in the early 1920s that would more than compensate Tissot for its lost market in Russia. That alliance would also irrevocably fuse the two companies in the eyes of jewelers, the buying public and, eventually, collectors. In 1925, Paul was made a director of Omega and, in 1929, the companies officially merged. Omega, which had already established a stronghold in the United States, became the distributing agent for Tissot. It is ironic how, today, many collectors think of Tissot as a “poor-man's Omega” because for many decades Tissot was promoted as the “higher-end” watch while Omega covered the “lower luxury” market.

The streamlining that had begun in the 1920 continued, so that at one point, Tissot offered 42 different models of watches using only five different cases. Examples of these can be seen below:

This period also saw technical innovation. For example, during the 1930s, Tissot introduced the industry's first anti-magnetic watch - a revolutionary development that would eventually benefit the entire watch industry. Magnetism is a watch movement's invisible enemy, eventually causing it to run erratically. During the late '30s, Tissot also introduced a water-resistant case that utilized clips to hold the back to the case. Later case designs would use screws in the back of the watch in conjunction with metal tabs that would “squeeze” the back to the case. Other innovations would follow, which I will discuss in a moment.

While Omega and Tissot tried their best to keep their brands distinct through the coming decades, the inevitable melding of the two did occur. It is possible (though not common), for example, to find watches during the 1930s - 1950s, that are signed both Omega and Tissot on the dial (left). Other Tissot models shared basic movement calibers with Omega watches, particularly chronographs which tended to utilize ebauches as a basic platform.

Many ladies' watches of the period (1930s - '40s) meanwhile, took on a more sporty/athletic look. Many had sweep seconds or auxiliary seconds hands, almost unheard of in ladies' watches of the day, except for nurses. This suggests that Tissot was appealing to a wider market than just the “watch-as-jewelry” look emphasized by other manufactures.

As mentioned previously, the collaboration of Tissot and Omega that began in 1925 was formalized in 1930 when the company entered into a community of interests that led to the foundation of the Societe Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogere S.A. (SSIH), headquartered in Geneva. In 1932, SSIH was joined by Lemania which effectively supplied the consortium (though not exclusively) with chronograph ebauches.  Another consortium of watchmakers, ASUAG, which was formed in 1931, would eventually figure into Tissot's future. In 1983, the two consortiums would merge to form SMH which would eventually become the Swatch Group Ltd. So today, Tissot is part of Swatch which, through the years and through various mergers and acquisitions, has become the umbrella corporation for some 20 watch and jewelry brands and is the largest manufacturer and distributor of finished watches in the world.

During the years that led to the end of Tissot as an independent company, Marie Tissot played an integral part. Born in Moscow, the sister of Paul Tissot joined the company in 1916 as an administrator, as previously mentioned. But eventually she would take over the whole accounting department. She is said to have given the company a “soul.”  She created the social department in Tissot, as well as a trust fund which benefited not only workers (male AND female), but their widows and orphans. It was one of the first companies to take on such a responsibility to the workers and their families. But at the same time, Marie was a staunch business woman, and all the construction and modifications to the factory required her assent before they could commence. Certainly, she was a woman ahead of her time and an anomaly in the male-dominated business world at that time, especially in Switzerland. She died in 1980 at age 83.

Her brother, Paul, meanwhile, passed away in 1951 at the relatively young age of 61 while at the top of his career at Tissot. After Paul's death, his cousin, Edouard-Louis Tissot (born 1896), already member of the  board of directors of the SSIH group, agreed to come back to Switzerland and to take over the management of Tissot, together with Marie. He had studied as an electrical engineer in Switzerland and since 1924 was as an engineer in Argentina, where he founded the “Compagnie Suisse-Argentine d'Electricité.” He died in 1977.

Luc Tissot, the son of  Edouard-Louis, born in 1937, also an engineer, was the last managing director of Tissot. He left the company in 1981 approximately two years before the merger of SSIH and ASUAG. As you can see, Tissot was a company steeped in family history.

 The watches

I have discussed some of the innovative watches introduced by Tissot through the 1930s. And many more were to come. Let’s take a look at some of their watches up to the start of WWII. 

Tissot Militar

At the outbreak of World War II, Tissot introduced a watch called the Militar (left). Though Tissot to my knowledge never formally contracted with the allied forces, the manual-wind Militar was nevertheless popular with soldiers who were not issued a military watch. The watches were often better quality than those issued by the military and may have even served as a “preferred timepiece” for soldiers who were given government-issued wristwatches! The Militar was eventually offered in automatic version, and was a popular model well into the 1960s as a “no-nonsense” watch.

In 1942, Tissot came out with a watch that is today one of the more collectible of Tissot watches - the Mediostat. It has an independent large sweep second hand that starts, stops and resets with the use a single pusher button. A constant seconds hands is located on

Tissot Mediostat

a subsidiary chapter at 6:00. Elapsed time of up to one minute can be measured, or longer if the user can remember how many times the large second hand has traversed the circumference of the dial. The watch was pitched to physicians, where it proved quite useful for taking patients' pulses. But technicians, scientists, and so forth could also make use of this feature. The model was even touted during the second world war years as a useful watch for artillery men, bombardiers and so forth to measure time between bomb launch and detonation.

At this point, we’ll take a look at some Tissot watches from a rare 1943 catalog from my collection. The text appears to be in Swiss German. While there are no military watches, per se, some of the watches have a military look to them.

 

 

In 1944, Tissot introduced its first automatic watch using the Caliber 28-family of movements which bore an almost exact likeness to the Omega Caliber 340 family. For eight years, Tissot automatics utilized a bumper pendulum until 1952 when they were replaced with full rotor pendulums.

Eventually, many of Tissot's automatic watches took on the initials “PR” in their reference. The first in the PR series was the “PR516” manufactured in 1956. The PR has stood for several meanings over the years, including Precision Resistance, Particularly Resistant, and Precise and Robust.

One caliber in particular, launched in 1951, the 28.5N-21, became the platform for what is arguably Tissot's most famous vintage wristwatch.  In 1953, the company used this caliber in a revolutionary new watch, called the Navigator (left). It is easy to spot, because an independent inner dial contains cities of the world printed vertically on it. It has a very unique operation. Pulling out the crown releases the inner dial with the cities printed on them. Turning the crown turns the cities dial. Turn until the city in your location is aligned with the numeral 24 on the outer dial. Then, press the pusher button (on some models a pin is required). This disengages the inner dial and allows you to set the correct local time. Push the crown in, the pusher button again pops back out, and the watch works in its normal mode. Time can then be seen in cities around the world relative to local time. The watch was made until 1960, at which time the caliber was discontinued as well. It is a rare watch indeed, and the few times one comes up for sale it is usually with high-profile auction houses such as Sotheby's or Christies. Tissot offered a true reproduction of the Navigator a few years back, cased in 18kt gold, with a production of 100 pieces. 

The 1960s and beyond

The 1960s were turbulent times for the watch industry, as mainstream manufactures struggled to compete against the onslaught of  the throw-away watches by Timex (pin-lever) and the cheaper jeweled-lever imports. Tissot made a gallant effort to remain a premium watch.

But no watch manufacture remained immune from the public's taste for cheap watches.

Tissot, like everyone else, looked for ways to lower the cost of production. A breakthrough occurred in 1969 when Tissot rolled out its first “Sideral” model (right). The case was made of plastic reinforced with fiberglass. The name Sideral was a marketing ploy and referred to sidereal time, which is time based on the rotation of the earth with reference to the background of the stars. For example, a sidereal day is the exact time required for a complete revolution of the earth, which is equivalent to 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4.09 seconds in terms of solar mean time, which is the standard unit of time measure (i.e., 24 hours in a day). Of course, the watch does not keep sidereal time. It was simply Tissot's attempt to come with a catchy name. The first in the Sideral series of plastic-cased watches was an automatic model, but was followed by electric and chronograph models as well. Models often have an inset screw on the back to fine-tune the time. This eliminates the need to open the case for routine timing adjustments. The initial price of the automatic model was 105 Swiss francs, equivalent to about $24 U.S. dollars at the time. That was about half the price of the most basic man's Tissot model cased in metal.

Two years later, in 1971, Tissot would carry this innovation one step further by introducing a watch with a plastic movement called the Astrolon or, in some cases, the “Sytal,” an acronym for “Systeme Total d'Autolubrification.” The majority of the parts - wheels, pinions, escapement, and plates - were all cast from plastic, and much of the watch movement was machine-assembled. The only metal components were the balance assembly, the mainspring, barrel, and the winding mechanism. Various parts of the movement are red, white, and blue - a nice touch. The number of parts were reduced from 90 in a conventional movement to 52. Because the movement was self-lubricating, the word “Autolub” was added to some models. The caliber designations were 2250, 2270 (date) and 2280 (day and date). One very distinctive model, the “Idea 2001,” was housed in a clear plastic case so the movement was visible. Most of the models had cases that were sealed. Furthermore, the movements could not be disassembled; they had to simply be replaced. Priced from $22.50 to as low as $8, they were designed as throw-away watches, only better, according to Tissot. The watch withstood normal water immersion tests to 30 psi, and Tissot's engineers claimed that the timepiece could compete with a chronometer for accuracy and reliability.  Some models were eventually made with cases that could be taken apart, so that the movement could at least be swapped out if problems arose. The watch, however, faced several problems, not the least of which was the introduction of commercially viable quartz watches. The Astrolon project was soon dropped and today, the watches (in particular, the Idea 2001 model) are quite collectible. 

Some collectors believe the Astrolon was the forerunner to the Swatch Watch, introduced in 1983. While there are many similarities, I still place the Astrolon in a separate category, since it still relied on a mechanical movement while Swatch Watches, at least initially, were strictly quartz watches (through many mechanical Swatch models were eventually and continue to be released).

The trend toward making cases out of nontraditional materials would continue into the 1980s, as Tissot introduced watches with cases made of granite, mother of pearl, wood, and ceramic.

In 1996, the company introduced the Autoquartz, with the ETA Caliber 205.111 movement. It is a hybrid between mechanical and quartz watch, like the Seiko Kinetic. But the similarities end there. The mechanics work in a totally different manner.

The company has made a marvelous comeback from its days of making “throw-away” watches, due in part to the renaissance of the Swiss watch industry as a whole. The public's taste has turned around to more durable goods of all kinds, which translates to better quality watches.  Today, the Tissot line is divided into several categories ranging from the “vintage look” to watches that appeal to those on the leading edge of technology.

Perhaps the most impressive watch to come out of the "techy" category is Tissot's “T-Touch” touch Screen watch. Introduced in 1999, the company claims it was the first watch with a touch-sensitive dial. Various functions of the watch are activated by touching the crystal of the watch. The watch was available in either stainless or titanium case. I lost track of all the functions back in 2014 when T-Touch had been increased to 25 different functions! 

Doxa Releases Limited Edition Sub 300T

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star magazine: 

Doxa channels its adventurous spirit through the fictional world of Clive Cussler, the acclaimed American adventure novelist. Cussler wrote over 85 books, selling more than 100 million copies, and discovered scores of shipwrecks through the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), the non-profit organization he founded in 1979. His books were adapted for the big screen twice: Raise the Titanic (1980) and Sahara (2005) Cusslet's novels were highly influential in showcasing Doxa to the world. The watch's iconic orange dial helped the famed fictional adventure hero, Dirk Pitt, to accurately read the time during his deadline-driven diving missions. This latest SUB 300T aged dial resembles a nautical artefact. Each watch is individually serial numbered. A percentage of sales from this special edition Clive Cussler watch will be donated to NUMA. Additionally, the names of shipwrecks and other historical artefacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA up to 2022 are engraved on the back of the SUB 300T. The watch sells for CHF 2,590, about $2,840. The Sub 300T was introduced in 1968.

Angelus Releases New Chronodate

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star Magazine

Angelus introduced a new Chronodate with a new, greyish shade of blue. Housed in a 42.5mm satin-finished, modular multi-structure titanium case, it pairs seamlessly with a matching titanium bracelet and features two large black counters.

The Chronodate recalls the brand’s historical roots since Angelus was a manufacturer of first-rate chronographs from the 1940s onwards. They were small in diameter to cater to the tastes of the time. Their counters stood out, appearing particularly large and visible. It was therefore logical for Angelus to give today’s Chronodate substantial counters that allow for optimal readability.

Inside the Chronodate Angelus has incorporated its own chronograph movement, the self-winding 26-jewel calibre A-500. It features the small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. A peripheral pointer date hand travels around the dial. On titanium bracelet (also available with rubber strap), the watch sells for CHF 24,900 incl. tax about $27,300.

Angelus came out with its famous Chronodate in 1942. It quickly became the company's top-selling watch.

History of Watch Advertising

 Interesting article in Europa Star magazine on the history of watch advertising. We start in 1900 and end in 1989. The article goes further than this, all the way to 2023. But my interest pretty much ends with 1989.

1900 saw the emergence of wrist watches to a skeptical public. Why wear a watch on your arm, exposing it to shocks and the vagaries of the weather, when you can rely on a tried and tested, well-protected pocket watch? Consequently, the pocket watch maintained its market dominance.

But the rise of the wristwatch was unstoppable, punctuated by World War I, which rendered the pocket watch impractical. Also, events bolstered the wrist watch's image. The Swiss Fair in Geneva (1920), the Paris Exhibition (1925 – famously known as the birthplace of the Art Deco style), and the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona (1929) celebrated the fusion of technology and artistry jewelry and made the wristwatch an acceptable timekeeper for men. Athletes, explorers, aviators, and show business stars.

1930-1939

The watchmaking industry reacted to the Great Depression of the early 1930s with remarkable inventiveness.  The first effective shock-proof device (Incabloc) and models with “armored” cases dispelled the remaining notions about the fragility of wristwatches. Rolex combined the Perpetual automatic movement with its waterproof Oyster case; Mimo introduced a model with a digital date display; and Breitling launched the two-pusher chronograph.

1940-1949

The first half of the decade was impacted by the war. The demand for precision instruments from all countries in conflict provided a significant boost to the Swiss watchmaking industry, which, despite supply challenges, accounted for one-third of national exports and 86% of the global market. Manufacturing focused on products suitable for military use, and advertising reflected this, while emphasizing that robustness and reliability were equally important in civilian life.

1950 - 1959

The “tool watch” graced the wrists of explorers, mountaineers, pilots and divers as they shattered records of all kinds. Feats such as expeditions to Mount Everest and descents into the depths in the bathyscaphe Trieste captivated the public’s attention and imagination. Manufacturers recognized the commercial potential of these events and advertised tool watches tailored to those who aspired to emulate the heroes of the moment. The burgeoning popularity of scuba diving spurred the production of timepieces resistant to water pressure (Rolex, Blancpain). Pilots and air travelers could rely on models boasting dual time zones, world time, and calculation functions (Breitling, Movado, Tissot). There were watches for fishermen (Heuer), hikers (Sandoz) and professionals or, more modestly, folks who just wanted a watch suited an active lifestyle.

1960-1969

The watch of the space age”: that was how Bulova introduced the Accutron, which used a tuning fork instead of a balance wheel as its regulating organ, kicking off the electronics revolution.

While its role in NASA missions was limited to being an on-board timer, the more traditional Omega Speedmaster – a mechanical chronograph – handled the harsh conditions of outer space. The Speedmaster became a bestseller, partly thanks to ads that highlighted its connection to the astronauts’ adventures.

1970-1979

In April 1970, the quartz wristwatch arrived in Switzerland. No fewer than 21 models were unveiled simultaneously, all powered by the Beta 21 movement from the Centre Electronique Horloger.

Initially, the revolution appeared to be purely technological, as the prices of these watches were comparable to luxury products. However, within a few short years, the cost of electronic modules plummeted, triggering a race to the bottom in which Japan and Hong Kong were the clear front runners.

1980-1989

Swatch: the name alone evokes not just a manufacturing and aesthetic revolution, but also a commercial and lifestyle phenomenon, the rebirth of the Swiss watch industry after years of struggle, and new, creative, non-conformist communication methods.

The enormous yellow watch stretched across a Frankfurt skyscraper’s façade, the vibrant and playful advertising, and the association with youth-centered events like the World Breakdance Championship.

The Watches of Switzerland

 By Bruce Shawkey

Ran across this interesting little booklet detailing the history of Switzerland, with emphasis on the watch industry. Appears to have been published shortly after WWII, because there is a 1946 calendar, and various references to the war and to the "G.Is" and so forth. The booklet was presumably aimed at the American servicemen who were returning to the United States and perhaps laid over in Switzerland for awhile and maybe bought a watch. There are ads in the booklet from Doxa, Movado, Cyma, and others.

Of particular interest to me is a page telling servicemen what NOT to do while spending time in Switzerland, including:

* Don't carry firearms;

* Don't try cashing postal money orders or dealing in U.S. currency. To do so can result in Court Martial.

* Don't sell or barter in U.S. Army goods.

* Don't get drunk. It's a disgrace in Switzerland.

* Don't cross railroad tracks. Trains in  Switzerland are fast and silent.

There is also a list of "Do's," including:

* Be a gentleman and a soldier at all times.

* Always keep yourself neat.

* Wear your proper uniform. Be a credit to America and the Army.

There is information on the history of Switzerland and its various Cantons (districts) such as Zurich, Basel, Geneva, etc.

There is also information on postal rates: 20 cents for a postcard; letters with a weight up to 20 grams, 30 cents.

Telephone calls: approximately $12 for a three-minute call to New York. (That's about $200 in today's dollars) 

West End

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Wikipedia:

The West End Watch Company was created in 1886. The West End, a district of the center of London, inspired its name to M. Arnold Charpié who was the Bombay representative of the Alcide Droz & Sons firm, a watch company established at Saint-Imier (Canton of Bern) in Switzerland.

During the First World War, a large force of British and Indian soldiers was sent from Bombay to the Persian Gulf to reach Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq). They received some West End Watch Company watches.

In 1917, the West End Watch Company changed its name to Société des Montres West End SA and was registered in Geneva. At the same time the sub-brand Sowar was also registered.

In 1934, the Société des Montres West End SA was the first brand to introduce the Incabloc anti-shock system invented by Mr. Braunschweig.

In 1973, after several years of development, the company was finally sold, for lack of heirs, to its main supplier, Aubry Brothers Ltd, established in Noirmont (Jura) to keep open the Bombay West End Watch Company's office.

Since 2000 the workshops and the head office of the company have been moved to Leytron, in Wallis. At the same time, the company was taken over by new shareholders and the management changed.

In 2005, the West End Watch Company celebrated its 120th anniversary of uninterrupted presence in Asia with the introduction of its "Silk Road concept." This concept came from the fact that the Silk Road crossed most of the regions where the brand possessed, and still possesses, counters.

Nowadays, West End Watch Company is active in Saudi Arabia, in the United Arab Emirates, in the Himalaya Range (in particular in Tibet, Nepal and in Bhutan), as well as in the western half of China.

In 2011, West End Watch Company celebrated 125 years of uninterrupted activity. At the beginning of the 20th century West End Watch Company launched a model called the Sowar -the cavalryman- named after one of the elite troops of the Indian army. This name was selected in honor of Sir Thomas Edward Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) because it is said that he and his soldiers wore West End Watch Company watches during the war. The Sowar model is still manufactured today.

Here are some images of West End watches:

Vintage

Modern

Mathey-Tissot

 By Bruce Shawkey

Edmond Mathey-Tissot established his watchmaking business in the village of Les Ponts-de-Martel in 1886. Mathey-Tissot is an independent watchmaker, with headquarters located in Geneva. Mathey-Tissot is not associated with Tissot, another Swiss watchmaking firm.

Mathey-Tissot initially specialized in "repeater" watches, timepieces that chime the hour and half hour. Soon afterwards, the company produced chronographs. During World War I, Mathey-Tissot supplied the United States Army Corps of Engineers with precision chronographs. Gen. John J. Pershing, Commander of the United States Expeditionary Forces, selected Mathey-Tissot as the watch to award to members of his staff.

In addition to its regular business of producing fine watches for jewelers throughout the world, Mathey-Tissot before and during World War II turned out thousands of timepieces for the United States armed forces and the British Navy.

The company is still in business to this day, and maintains a website at www.matheytissot.com. Here are some images of Mathey-Tissot watches through the decades:

Gallet

 By Bruce Shawkey

Gallet can trace its roots all the way back to 1466 when Humbertus Gallet tinkered with various metals and was recoreded in various census records as a horloger or clock maker. The Gallet company went to great pains and expense to trace Gallet's geneology to gain bragging rights as the world's oldest watch company.

But the real story of Gallet began in 1826 when Julien Gallet (1806–1849) founded his company in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland and began distributing pocket watches all across Europe.. In 1855, Julien Gallet's son Léon (1832–1899) further expanded distribution to help meet Europe's increasing demand for watches. In 1864, Léon's brother, Lucien Gallet (1834–1879), established the company's first U.S. location in Chicago, with a New York City office following soon after. Together with Jules Racine, a cousin of the Gallet brothers living in the U.S., the company began its expansion into the American market.

Due to the American consumer's preference for domestically styled products, the Gallet Company created numerous new lines to effectively compete with American brands. While the names that appeared on the dials and the overall appearance and function of these watches were tailored to American tastes, all cases and movements continued to be produced in Gallet's La Chaux-Fonds workshop. Each of the numerous brands were designed to target a different demographic. Lower priced watches were supplied to the average working man, as well as expensive high-grade and complicated timepieces in solid gold cases for the wealthy. By the end of the 19th century, Gallet selling more than 100,000 timepieces per year and was beginning to transition into wrist watches.

I want to take a break here and talk about of the first wristwatches for which Gallet supplied the movements. 

A while ago, my friend Stan Czubernaut found what he believed was one of the first wrist watches ever made. It was made by Gorham Co. for members of the European Mounted Infantry so that the time could be read while riding a horse without the tricky maneuver of pulling out a watch of  the soldier's pocket . A date marking on the underside of the dial was engraved 8/94, which meant the watch had been built in August of 1894. Gorham Co., was located in New York, NY.  They offered the watch for $15. The true identity of the watch movement was Gallet. This beats the old record generally believed to be held by Omega, which is confirmed to have made a man's wristwatch in 1903. Stan completely restored the watch and sold it with what was believed to be the original leather band, as it was sewn right on to the watch. It was quite fragile, as you might expect for being 124 years old, but it was all there, including the buckle. Stan even contacted the Gallet company, and they were anxious to cooperate with Stan's research, but were unable to find anything in their archives. Stan was able to find to find the ad from Gorham in an obscure Wiki-journal that read Gallet made "bracelet watches" for members of the European Mounted Infantry in this year, but none has ever surfaced. Way to flush out those details, Stan!

 OK, back to the history of Gallet:

When the worldwide economic downturn of the 1930s caused international trade to plunge, Gallet changed its focus to the manufacture of professional-use timepieces (hand-held timers and chronograph wristwatches) to allied military and industrial clients during the years leading up to and through World War II. During this period, the Gallet's sales again surpassed 100,000 units annually. A wartime Gallet timepiece of particular renown was the Flight Officer time-zone chronograph, which is still being produced today. Commissioned by Senator Harry S. Truman's senatorial staff in 1939 for the United States Army Air Force, this wristwatch made it possible to calculate changes in the time as a pilot flew across lines of longitude. In Gallet produced the Multichron Petite. The Petite is one of the first wrist chronographs engineered exclusively for enlisted women assigned to technical and scientific tasks during World War II. Powered by the 10 ligne Valjoux 69 movement, and measuring only 26.6mm in diameter, the MultiChron Petite became the smallest mechanical chronograph ever manufactured.

With the end of World War II, and the death of Georges, son Léon Gallet assumes management of the Gallet Company. Only minor changes are needed to transform the appearance of Gallet's military style watches into trendy chronographs for sportsmen and civilian pilots.After the war, Gallet's reputation spread to civilians and professionals in the fields of aviation, sports, medicine, and technology. Their success continues through the '50s and well into the '60s.

The '70s brings with it the quartz crisis, and Gallet is not spared. Upon the death of Léon Gallet (1899–1975), sons Pierre and Bernard assume management of the company. They acquire the Racine Company, which has been struggling as well.

The history of Gallet bounces around from owner to owner for the next couple of decades, but is eventually acquired by David Laurence, who becomes a sort of patron saint for Gallet. He goes to great lengths to restore Gallet's standing in the watchmaking making pantheon. His efforts include sponsoring a temport exhibit at the the National Watch and Clock Museum featuring numerous personal timepieces and accompanying stories of those who have served their countries for the last 250 years. Watches in the exhibit included George Washington's pocket watch, the Gallet chronograph worn by Fred Gerretson while serving as war photographer during the Invasion of Normandy, and the Gallet wristwatch worn by 2nd LT James Richard Hoel when his plane was shot down in the Netherlands by the Germans during WWII. Hoel was sent to the prison camp Stalag Luft III, about 100 miles southeast of Berlin, which was portrayed in the 1963 movie "The Great Escape". He was among the imprisoned officers who helped dig the tunnels as depicted in the movie.

With the support and assistance of David R. Laurence, NAWCC installs a permanent exhibit entitled "At Arm's Length: The History of the Wristwatch". The exhibit provides a comprehensive view of the evolution of the wristwatch, from the small pocket watches that were first strapped to the wrist in leather holders, through the numerous technological advancements in wristwatch functionality during the 20th century, and concluding with the wrist-worn timekeeping marvels of the present day. 

let's look at some of Gallet's wrist watches through the decades.

Watch Hands

 By Bruce Shawkey

We don't often think of watch hands, but truly, watches would be pretty worthless without them. Here's a company that specializes in watch hands. The one at left looks like a hand for a character watch, maybe a particular famous mouse of the Disney corporation? The ad is from a 1975 issue of Europa Star magazine:

Case Design

 By Bruce Shawkey

In the '70s, wristwatches were taking on all sorts of innovations, what with the invention of the quartz movement. And of course, the market for mechanical watches was still very much alive. Enter the "FIBO" watch case company. They advertised in Europa Star magazine. Their cases were made of stainless and base metal. They apparently were not in business for very long, but they made some interesting cases. Check out that one on the second ad shaped like a guitar.

Ogival

 By Bruce Shawkey

Ogival was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1929. By the 1970s, they sold mass-market and upscale watches with the Ogival and Mirvaine brands. In 1979, Ogival took over bankrupt Ulysse Nardin, selling it in 1983.

Must have been pretty powerful to have taken over prestigious Ulysse Nardin.

Have no idea what "battle-time" means. The movement has an Incabloc shock protected system, so I assume batle-time means the movement is protected from battlel!

One-of-a-Kind Watches

 By Bruce Shawkey

Saw this interesting article in Europa Star magazine:

Goldsmith creates one-of-a-kind watches

Schlegel & Plana are famous in Switzerland and throughout the world for the exceptional beauty and quality of their jewellery creations. They have now acquired a similar reputation in the highly competitive sector of precious watches. Little by little, they have entered the ranks of the most famous names in "de luxe" models. Their SP model is already assimilated on many markets, especially in the Middle East, where it has come to represent a type of jewellery richly decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds and gemstones. The watch is often the centre and provides a pretext for breathless feats of goldsmithry. Some of these unique pieces are illustrated here. as splendid and harmonious as anything made by the greatest masters of our times. Each one is not only a beautiful ornament but serves to highlight any collection devoted to contemporary art. 

Quartz vs. Mechanical

Saw this very thoughtful editorial in a 1976 issue of Europa Star magazine. It talked about the coming age of quartz watches, and whether they would replace mechanical watches. Time would tell us that both kinds of watches can exist in harmony. There are those who value the accuracy of a quartz watch, and those who prefer the warmth and tradition of a mechanical watch. I find it interesting that the article predicted LED watch would not last long due to their power drain. In any event, here's the editorial:

Until When Will Watches Remain Watches

Almost two months have passed since the closing down of the big spring fairs. What conclusions can be drawn from these events which everyone had been waiting for with mixed feelings of apprehension and hope?

One thing is certain: A recovery has taken place but on a relatively modest scale. Buyers from the whole world over who went to Switzerland and Germany paid very special attention to the collections that had been prepared for them. More than ever, they compared prices and models and the resulting orders were never the result of chance.

The password seemed to be CAUTION. Caution before a market still convalescing from the dread disease that had struck it down so suddenly, caution before the pitiless struggle waged between mechanical and electronic calibers, often in the frame-work of the same concern. In this war between traditional watches and the various new quartz systems with digital or analogue displays, no real decision has yet taken effect this spring. 

While there is no doubt that electronic watches have gained a solid foothold on the market and are now accepted by the great majority of manufacturers and distributors, it is certain, too, that mechanical watches, especially automatics, are far from having said their last word. The trend seems to be towards a harmonious division of the market that will take place when the fever arising from a novelty owing its immense popularity to a slightly mysterious technology has abated somewhat.

 It must be noted, however, that the industry which, with a few exceptions, seemed to hesitate to follow its American competitors, on the burning territory of electronics, has now made its choice. In an astonishingly short lapse of time, the powerful concerns of this country have assimilated the lessons of its adversaries and succeeded in turning out models of excellent timekeeping performance and reliability.

So much so that it can be said today that Switzerland will soon be taking the lead again in the field of electronics, at least where high-grade products are concerned, especially those models equipped with liquid crystal display. The situation is different in the sector of watches with LED display produced on a large scale. Prices here have dropped in a spectacular manner and there will certainly be some surprises in the future. It is thought generally in the trade that the present vogue for this kind of display which usually requires a pusher to be depressed and consumes a lot of electricity, might be short-lived and diminish progressively as more perfected systems of permanent display come on the market. In any case, for how long will the solid state watch still deserve the name of watch? The growing number of functions in prototypes presented by manufacturers cause this question to be raised seriously. Are we not at the eve of a fundamental mutation in time-keeping instruments leading to something infinitely more complex? We only have to wait for the future to supply the answer. 

Bullhead Chronographs

 By Bruce Shawkey

Mortima

 By Bruce Shawkey

Mortima is together with Sicura one of the most important brands if you are interested in every man’s and affordable watches from the 1960s and 1970s. Mortima was a french brand from company ”Cattin & Cie” in Morteau. The name ”Mortima” was probably inspired by the city name ”Morteau” and the English word ”time”.

Rare Tenor Dorly Jump Hour Watch

Rare Tenor Dorly Jump Hour Watch

 By Bruce Shawkey

Interesting watch company, Tenor Dorly. Tenor Dorly was founded in Tramelan, Switzerland in the 1950s, went bankrupt in 1974 and was relaunched in 1997. Early models, especially of this 'space egg' design, are quite rare and very sought-after. The term 'space egg' refers to the oval, egg-shaped dial.

More info for a seller who had one for sale (picture below):

Rare, 100% Swiss steel 'jump hour' watch with date display and 17 jewels. Tenor Dorly was founded in Tramelan, Switzerland in the 1950s, went bankrupt in 1974 and was relaunched in 1997. Early models, especially of this 'space egg' design, are quite rare and very sought-after. The term 'space egg' refers to the oval, egg-shaped dial. Outer dimensions of the case are approx. 4 x 4 cm, the inner 'egg' measures approx. 2.7 x 1.6 cm. Mechanical, manual winding, water resistant, not tested. Comes with a black/dark blue leather strap that's only been worn a few times, and with a new box with watch cushion. The watch keeps good time, minimal deviation is possible, in very good condition for its age, with light, age-related signs of wear. Note: the date jumps to the next day at around 10:30. Please see the photos to form your own impression. Will be carefully packaged and shipped with track and trace.

The watch sold for €200, about $258. Here is another image from Europa Star magazine:

More Tenor Dorly watches:

This chronograph is really interesting. Wish I knew how much it sold for.

Here's another/ It sold for €350, about $450: