Doxa Releases Limited Edition Sub 300T

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star magazine: 

Doxa channels its adventurous spirit through the fictional world of Clive Cussler, the acclaimed American adventure novelist. Cussler wrote over 85 books, selling more than 100 million copies, and discovered scores of shipwrecks through the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), the non-profit organization he founded in 1979. His books were adapted for the big screen twice: Raise the Titanic (1980) and Sahara (2005) Cusslet's novels were highly influential in showcasing Doxa to the world. The watch's iconic orange dial helped the famed fictional adventure hero, Dirk Pitt, to accurately read the time during his deadline-driven diving missions. This latest SUB 300T aged dial resembles a nautical artefact. Each watch is individually serial numbered. A percentage of sales from this special edition Clive Cussler watch will be donated to NUMA. Additionally, the names of shipwrecks and other historical artefacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA up to 2022 are engraved on the back of the SUB 300T. The watch sells for CHF 2,590, about $2,840. The Sub 300T was introduced in 1968.

Angelus Releases New Chronodate

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star Magazine

Angelus introduced a new Chronodate with a new, greyish shade of blue. Housed in a 42.5mm satin-finished, modular multi-structure titanium case, it pairs seamlessly with a matching titanium bracelet and features two large black counters.

The Chronodate recalls the brand’s historical roots since Angelus was a manufacturer of first-rate chronographs from the 1940s onwards. They were small in diameter to cater to the tastes of the time. Their counters stood out, appearing particularly large and visible. It was therefore logical for Angelus to give today’s Chronodate substantial counters that allow for optimal readability.

Inside the Chronodate Angelus has incorporated its own chronograph movement, the self-winding 26-jewel calibre A-500. It features the small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. A peripheral pointer date hand travels around the dial. On titanium bracelet (also available with rubber strap), the watch sells for CHF 24,900 incl. tax about $27,300.

Angelus came out with its famous Chronodate in 1942. It quickly became the company's top-selling watch.

History of Watch Advertising

 Interesting article in Europa Star magazine on the history of watch advertising. We start in 1900 and end in 1989. The article goes further than this, all the way to 2023. But my interest pretty much ends with 1989.

1900 saw the emergence of wrist watches to a skeptical public. Why wear a watch on your arm, exposing it to shocks and the vagaries of the weather, when you can rely on a tried and tested, well-protected pocket watch? Consequently, the pocket watch maintained its market dominance.

But the rise of the wristwatch was unstoppable, punctuated by World War I, which rendered the pocket watch impractical. Also, events bolstered the wrist watch's image. The Swiss Fair in Geneva (1920), the Paris Exhibition (1925 – famously known as the birthplace of the Art Deco style), and the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona (1929) celebrated the fusion of technology and artistry jewelry and made the wristwatch an acceptable timekeeper for men. Athletes, explorers, aviators, and show business stars.

1930-1939

The watchmaking industry reacted to the Great Depression of the early 1930s with remarkable inventiveness.  The first effective shock-proof device (Incabloc) and models with “armored” cases dispelled the remaining notions about the fragility of wristwatches. Rolex combined the Perpetual automatic movement with its waterproof Oyster case; Mimo introduced a model with a digital date display; and Breitling launched the two-pusher chronograph.

1940-1949

The first half of the decade was impacted by the war. The demand for precision instruments from all countries in conflict provided a significant boost to the Swiss watchmaking industry, which, despite supply challenges, accounted for one-third of national exports and 86% of the global market. Manufacturing focused on products suitable for military use, and advertising reflected this, while emphasizing that robustness and reliability were equally important in civilian life.

1950 - 1959

The “tool watch” graced the wrists of explorers, mountaineers, pilots and divers as they shattered records of all kinds. Feats such as expeditions to Mount Everest and descents into the depths in the bathyscaphe Trieste captivated the public’s attention and imagination. Manufacturers recognized the commercial potential of these events and advertised tool watches tailored to those who aspired to emulate the heroes of the moment. The burgeoning popularity of scuba diving spurred the production of timepieces resistant to water pressure (Rolex, Blancpain). Pilots and air travelers could rely on models boasting dual time zones, world time, and calculation functions (Breitling, Movado, Tissot). There were watches for fishermen (Heuer), hikers (Sandoz) and professionals or, more modestly, folks who just wanted a watch suited an active lifestyle.

1960-1969

The watch of the space age”: that was how Bulova introduced the Accutron, which used a tuning fork instead of a balance wheel as its regulating organ, kicking off the electronics revolution.

While its role in NASA missions was limited to being an on-board timer, the more traditional Omega Speedmaster – a mechanical chronograph – handled the harsh conditions of outer space. The Speedmaster became a bestseller, partly thanks to ads that highlighted its connection to the astronauts’ adventures.

1970-1979

In April 1970, the quartz wristwatch arrived in Switzerland. No fewer than 21 models were unveiled simultaneously, all powered by the Beta 21 movement from the Centre Electronique Horloger.

Initially, the revolution appeared to be purely technological, as the prices of these watches were comparable to luxury products. However, within a few short years, the cost of electronic modules plummeted, triggering a race to the bottom in which Japan and Hong Kong were the clear front runners.

1980-1989

Swatch: the name alone evokes not just a manufacturing and aesthetic revolution, but also a commercial and lifestyle phenomenon, the rebirth of the Swiss watch industry after years of struggle, and new, creative, non-conformist communication methods.

The enormous yellow watch stretched across a Frankfurt skyscraper’s façade, the vibrant and playful advertising, and the association with youth-centered events like the World Breakdance Championship.

The Watches of Switzerland

 By Bruce Shawkey

Ran across this interesting little booklet detailing the history of Switzerland, with emphasis on the watch industry. Appears to have been published shortly after WWII, because there is a 1946 calendar, and various references to the war and to the "G.Is" and so forth. The booklet was presumably aimed at the American servicemen who were returning to the United States and perhaps laid over in Switzerland for awhile and maybe bought a watch. There are ads in the booklet from Doxa, Movado, Cyma, and others.

Of particular interest to me is a page telling servicemen what NOT to do while spending time in Switzerland, including:

* Don't carry firearms;

* Don't try cashing postal money orders or dealing in U.S. currency. To do so can result in Court Martial.

* Don't sell or barter in U.S. Army goods.

* Don't get drunk. It's a disgrace in Switzerland.

* Don't cross railroad tracks. Trains in  Switzerland are fast and silent.

There is also a list of "Do's," including:

* Be a gentleman and a soldier at all times.

* Always keep yourself neat.

* Wear your proper uniform. Be a credit to America and the Army.

There is information on the history of Switzerland and its various Cantons (districts) such as Zurich, Basel, Geneva, etc.

There is also information on postal rates: 20 cents for a postcard; letters with a weight up to 20 grams, 30 cents.

Telephone calls: approximately $12 for a three-minute call to New York. (That's about $200 in today's dollars) 

West End

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Wikipedia:

The West End Watch Company was created in 1886. The West End, a district of the center of London, inspired its name to M. Arnold Charpié who was the Bombay representative of the Alcide Droz & Sons firm, a watch company established at Saint-Imier (Canton of Bern) in Switzerland.

During the First World War, a large force of British and Indian soldiers was sent from Bombay to the Persian Gulf to reach Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq). They received some West End Watch Company watches.

In 1917, the West End Watch Company changed its name to Société des Montres West End SA and was registered in Geneva. At the same time the sub-brand Sowar was also registered.

In 1934, the Société des Montres West End SA was the first brand to introduce the Incabloc anti-shock system invented by Mr. Braunschweig.

In 1973, after several years of development, the company was finally sold, for lack of heirs, to its main supplier, Aubry Brothers Ltd, established in Noirmont (Jura) to keep open the Bombay West End Watch Company's office.

Since 2000 the workshops and the head office of the company have been moved to Leytron, in Wallis. At the same time, the company was taken over by new shareholders and the management changed.

In 2005, the West End Watch Company celebrated its 120th anniversary of uninterrupted presence in Asia with the introduction of its "Silk Road concept." This concept came from the fact that the Silk Road crossed most of the regions where the brand possessed, and still possesses, counters.

Nowadays, West End Watch Company is active in Saudi Arabia, in the United Arab Emirates, in the Himalaya Range (in particular in Tibet, Nepal and in Bhutan), as well as in the western half of China.

In 2011, West End Watch Company celebrated 125 years of uninterrupted activity. At the beginning of the 20th century West End Watch Company launched a model called the Sowar -the cavalryman- named after one of the elite troops of the Indian army. This name was selected in honor of Sir Thomas Edward Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) because it is said that he and his soldiers wore West End Watch Company watches during the war. The Sowar model is still manufactured today.

Here are some images of West End watches:

Vintage

Modern