Wednesday, July 12, 2023

One-of-a-Kind Watches

 By Bruce Shawkey

Saw this interesting article in Europa Star magazine:


Goldsmith creates one-of-a-kind watches



Schlegel & Plana are famous in Switzerland and throughout the world for the exceptional beauty and quality of their jewellery creations. They have now acquired a similar reputation in the highly competitive sector of precious watches. Little by little, they have entered the ranks of the most famous names in "de luxe" models. Their SP model is already assimilated on many markets, especially in the Middle East, where it has come to represent a type of jewellery richly decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds and gemstones. The watch is often the centre and provides a pretext for breathless feats of goldsmithry. Some of these unique pieces are illustrated here. as splendid and harmonious as anything made by the greatest masters of our times. Each one is not only a beautiful ornament but serves to highlight any collection devoted to contemporary art. 




Tuesday, July 11, 2023

Quartz vs. Mechanical

Saw this very thoughtful editorial in a 1976 issue of Europa Star magazine. It talked about the coming age of quartz watches, and whether they would replace mechanical watches. Time would tell us that both kinds of watches can exist in harmony. There are those who value the accuracy of a quartz watch, and those who prefer the warmth and tradition of a mechanical watch. I find it interesting that the article predicted LED watch would not last long due to their power drain. In any event, here's the editorial:


Until When Will Watches Remain Watches

Almost two months have passed since the closing down of the big spring fairs. What conclusions can be drawn from these events which everyone had been waiting for with mixed feelings of apprehension and hope?

One thing is certain: A recovery has taken place but on a relatively modest scale. Buyers from the whole world over who went to Switzerland and Germany paid very special attention to the collections that had been prepared for them. More than ever, they compared prices and models and the resulting orders were never the result of chance.

The password seemed to be CAUTION. Caution before a market still convalescing from the dread disease that had struck it down so suddenly, caution before the pitiless struggle waged between mechanical and electronic calibers, often in the frame-work of the same concern. In this war between traditional watches and the various new quartz systems with digital or analogue displays, no real decision has yet taken effect this spring. 

While there is no doubt that electronic watches have gained a solid foothold on the market and are now accepted by the great majority of manufacturers and distributors, it is certain, too, that mechanical watches, especially automatics, are far from having said their last word. The trend seems to be towards a harmonious division of the market that will take place when the fever arising from a novelty owing its immense popularity to a slightly mysterious technology has abated somewhat.

 It must be noted, however, that the industry which, with a few exceptions, seemed to hesitate to follow its American competitors, on the burning territory of electronics, has now made its choice. In an astonishingly short lapse of time, the powerful concerns of this country have assimilated the lessons of its adversaries and succeeded in turning out models of excellent timekeeping performance and reliability.

So much so that it can be said today that Switzerland will soon be taking the lead again in the field of electronics, at least where high-grade products are concerned, especially those models equipped with liquid crystal display. The situation is different in the sector of watches with LED display produced on a large scale. Prices here have dropped in a spectacular manner and there will certainly be some surprises in the future. It is thought generally in the trade that the present vogue for this kind of display which usually requires a pusher to be depressed and consumes a lot of electricity, might be short-lived and diminish progressively as more perfected systems of permanent display come on the market. In any case, for how long will the solid state watch still deserve the name of watch? The growing number of functions in prototypes presented by manufacturers cause this question to be raised seriously. Are we not at the eve of a fundamental mutation in time-keeping instruments leading to something infinitely more complex? We only have to wait for the future to supply the answer. 

Bullhead Chronographs

 By Bruce Shawkey




Mortima

 By Bruce Shawkey


Mortima is together with Sicura one of the most important brands if you are interested in every man’s and affordable watches from the 1960s and 1970s. Mortima was a french brand from company ”Cattin & Cie” in Morteau. The name ”Mortima” was probably inspired by the city name ”Morteau” and the English word ”time”.






Rare Tenor Dorly Jump Hour Watch

Rare Tenor Dorly Jump Hour Watch

 By Bruce Shawkey


Interesting watch company, Tenor Dorly. Tenor Dorly was founded in Tramelan, Switzerland in the 1950s, went bankrupt in 1974 and was relaunched in 1997. Early models, especially of this 'space egg' design, are quite rare and very sought-after. The term 'space egg' refers to the oval, egg-shaped dial.


More info for a seller who had one for sale (picture below):

Rare, 100% Swiss steel 'jump hour' watch with date display and 17 jewels. Tenor Dorly was founded in Tramelan, Switzerland in the 1950s, went bankrupt in 1974 and was relaunched in 1997. Early models, especially of this 'space egg' design, are quite rare and very sought-after. The term 'space egg' refers to the oval, egg-shaped dial. Outer dimensions of the case are approx. 4 x 4 cm, the inner 'egg' measures approx. 2.7 x 1.6 cm. Mechanical, manual winding, water resistant, not tested. Comes with a black/dark blue leather strap that's only been worn a few times, and with a new box with watch cushion. The watch keeps good time, minimal deviation is possible, in very good condition for its age, with light, age-related signs of wear. Note: the date jumps to the next day at around 10:30. Please see the photos to form your own impression. Will be carefully packaged and shipped with track and trace.



The watch sold for €200, about $258. Here is another image from Europa Star magazine:


More Tenor Dorly watches:







This chronograph is really interesting. Wish I knew how much it sold for.

Here's another/ It sold for €350, about $450:


Monday, July 10, 2023

Oh, Those French!

 By Bruce Shawkey


Ran across this ad for French watches in a 1975 issue of Europa Star magazine:





Here's another article on French watches; 

 By Bruce Shawkey

We tend to think of Switzerland as the watch capital of the world, but France also held its own in the heyday of watch manufacturing. Some of the players were LIP. Yema, LOV, and others. Paris, Lyons, Bordeaux, Marseille, etc. all hosted exhibitions. Here are some examples:




Uranis

 By Bruce Shawkey




In a recent issue. we showed readers the model of an electronic quartz watch fitted with a system enabling it to be used also as a mini-computer. We are able today to announce further progress in this field since we hear that the American firm Uranus Electronics Inc. has unveiled a solar-powered computer calculator watch. 

It consists of a five function watch and an 8-digit calculator with four functions. floating decimal and memory. The calculator functions by means of push-buttons set round the bezel in the usual hour-circle. rather like a telephone dial. The resulting readout is shown by light-emitting diodes. It is powered by tiny solar cells that convert ordinary sunlight or incandescent light into energy to be stored in batteries lasting approximately 3 years with normal wearing. Uranus Electronics Inc. is an American company specializing in precision electronics and the technique of semi-conductors. Founded in 1970, it began manufacturing digital electronic watches under the direction of Messrs. Levine and Arthur Cake. vice-presidents of the technical department who possess several patents for LCD and LED watch design. According to information received. it appears that this concern intends to market the above-mentioned watch-computer on a very large scale and is also preparing to release several new developments that are described as being sensational.