Doxa Releases Limited Edition Sub 300T

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star magazine: 

Doxa channels its adventurous spirit through the fictional world of Clive Cussler, the acclaimed American adventure novelist. Cussler wrote over 85 books, selling more than 100 million copies, and discovered scores of shipwrecks through the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), the non-profit organization he founded in 1979. His books were adapted for the big screen twice: Raise the Titanic (1980) and Sahara (2005) Cusslet's novels were highly influential in showcasing Doxa to the world. The watch's iconic orange dial helped the famed fictional adventure hero, Dirk Pitt, to accurately read the time during his deadline-driven diving missions. This latest SUB 300T aged dial resembles a nautical artefact. Each watch is individually serial numbered. A percentage of sales from this special edition Clive Cussler watch will be donated to NUMA. Additionally, the names of shipwrecks and other historical artefacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA up to 2022 are engraved on the back of the SUB 300T. The watch sells for CHF 2,590, about $2,840. The Sub 300T was introduced in 1968.

Angelus Releases New Chronodate

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star Magazine

Angelus introduced a new Chronodate with a new, greyish shade of blue. Housed in a 42.5mm satin-finished, modular multi-structure titanium case, it pairs seamlessly with a matching titanium bracelet and features two large black counters.

The Chronodate recalls the brand’s historical roots since Angelus was a manufacturer of first-rate chronographs from the 1940s onwards. They were small in diameter to cater to the tastes of the time. Their counters stood out, appearing particularly large and visible. It was therefore logical for Angelus to give today’s Chronodate substantial counters that allow for optimal readability.

Inside the Chronodate Angelus has incorporated its own chronograph movement, the self-winding 26-jewel calibre A-500. It features the small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. A peripheral pointer date hand travels around the dial. On titanium bracelet (also available with rubber strap), the watch sells for CHF 24,900 incl. tax about $27,300.

Angelus came out with its famous Chronodate in 1942. It quickly became the company's top-selling watch.

History of Watch Advertising

 Interesting article in Europa Star magazine on the history of watch advertising. We start in 1900 and end in 1989. The article goes further than this, all the way to 2023. But my interest pretty much ends with 1989.

1900 saw the emergence of wrist watches to a skeptical public. Why wear a watch on your arm, exposing it to shocks and the vagaries of the weather, when you can rely on a tried and tested, well-protected pocket watch? Consequently, the pocket watch maintained its market dominance.

But the rise of the wristwatch was unstoppable, punctuated by World War I, which rendered the pocket watch impractical. Also, events bolstered the wrist watch's image. The Swiss Fair in Geneva (1920), the Paris Exhibition (1925 – famously known as the birthplace of the Art Deco style), and the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona (1929) celebrated the fusion of technology and artistry jewelry and made the wristwatch an acceptable timekeeper for men. Athletes, explorers, aviators, and show business stars.

1930-1939

The watchmaking industry reacted to the Great Depression of the early 1930s with remarkable inventiveness.  The first effective shock-proof device (Incabloc) and models with “armored” cases dispelled the remaining notions about the fragility of wristwatches. Rolex combined the Perpetual automatic movement with its waterproof Oyster case; Mimo introduced a model with a digital date display; and Breitling launched the two-pusher chronograph.

1940-1949

The first half of the decade was impacted by the war. The demand for precision instruments from all countries in conflict provided a significant boost to the Swiss watchmaking industry, which, despite supply challenges, accounted for one-third of national exports and 86% of the global market. Manufacturing focused on products suitable for military use, and advertising reflected this, while emphasizing that robustness and reliability were equally important in civilian life.

1950 - 1959

The “tool watch” graced the wrists of explorers, mountaineers, pilots and divers as they shattered records of all kinds. Feats such as expeditions to Mount Everest and descents into the depths in the bathyscaphe Trieste captivated the public’s attention and imagination. Manufacturers recognized the commercial potential of these events and advertised tool watches tailored to those who aspired to emulate the heroes of the moment. The burgeoning popularity of scuba diving spurred the production of timepieces resistant to water pressure (Rolex, Blancpain). Pilots and air travelers could rely on models boasting dual time zones, world time, and calculation functions (Breitling, Movado, Tissot). There were watches for fishermen (Heuer), hikers (Sandoz) and professionals or, more modestly, folks who just wanted a watch suited an active lifestyle.

1960-1969

The watch of the space age”: that was how Bulova introduced the Accutron, which used a tuning fork instead of a balance wheel as its regulating organ, kicking off the electronics revolution.

While its role in NASA missions was limited to being an on-board timer, the more traditional Omega Speedmaster – a mechanical chronograph – handled the harsh conditions of outer space. The Speedmaster became a bestseller, partly thanks to ads that highlighted its connection to the astronauts’ adventures.

1970-1979

In April 1970, the quartz wristwatch arrived in Switzerland. No fewer than 21 models were unveiled simultaneously, all powered by the Beta 21 movement from the Centre Electronique Horloger.

Initially, the revolution appeared to be purely technological, as the prices of these watches were comparable to luxury products. However, within a few short years, the cost of electronic modules plummeted, triggering a race to the bottom in which Japan and Hong Kong were the clear front runners.

1980-1989

Swatch: the name alone evokes not just a manufacturing and aesthetic revolution, but also a commercial and lifestyle phenomenon, the rebirth of the Swiss watch industry after years of struggle, and new, creative, non-conformist communication methods.

The enormous yellow watch stretched across a Frankfurt skyscraper’s façade, the vibrant and playful advertising, and the association with youth-centered events like the World Breakdance Championship.

The Watches of Switzerland

 By Bruce Shawkey

Ran across this interesting little booklet detailing the history of Switzerland, with emphasis on the watch industry. Appears to have been published shortly after WWII, because there is a 1946 calendar, and various references to the war and to the "G.Is" and so forth. The booklet was presumably aimed at the American servicemen who were returning to the United States and perhaps laid over in Switzerland for awhile and maybe bought a watch. There are ads in the booklet from Doxa, Movado, Cyma, and others.

Of particular interest to me is a page telling servicemen what NOT to do while spending time in Switzerland, including:

* Don't carry firearms;

* Don't try cashing postal money orders or dealing in U.S. currency. To do so can result in Court Martial.

* Don't sell or barter in U.S. Army goods.

* Don't get drunk. It's a disgrace in Switzerland.

* Don't cross railroad tracks. Trains in  Switzerland are fast and silent.

There is also a list of "Do's," including:

* Be a gentleman and a soldier at all times.

* Always keep yourself neat.

* Wear your proper uniform. Be a credit to America and the Army.

There is information on the history of Switzerland and its various Cantons (districts) such as Zurich, Basel, Geneva, etc.

There is also information on postal rates: 20 cents for a postcard; letters with a weight up to 20 grams, 30 cents.

Telephone calls: approximately $12 for a three-minute call to New York. (That's about $200 in today's dollars) 

West End

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Wikipedia:

The West End Watch Company was created in 1886. The West End, a district of the center of London, inspired its name to M. Arnold Charpié who was the Bombay representative of the Alcide Droz & Sons firm, a watch company established at Saint-Imier (Canton of Bern) in Switzerland.

During the First World War, a large force of British and Indian soldiers was sent from Bombay to the Persian Gulf to reach Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq). They received some West End Watch Company watches.

In 1917, the West End Watch Company changed its name to Société des Montres West End SA and was registered in Geneva. At the same time the sub-brand Sowar was also registered.

In 1934, the Société des Montres West End SA was the first brand to introduce the Incabloc anti-shock system invented by Mr. Braunschweig.

In 1973, after several years of development, the company was finally sold, for lack of heirs, to its main supplier, Aubry Brothers Ltd, established in Noirmont (Jura) to keep open the Bombay West End Watch Company's office.

Since 2000 the workshops and the head office of the company have been moved to Leytron, in Wallis. At the same time, the company was taken over by new shareholders and the management changed.

In 2005, the West End Watch Company celebrated its 120th anniversary of uninterrupted presence in Asia with the introduction of its "Silk Road concept." This concept came from the fact that the Silk Road crossed most of the regions where the brand possessed, and still possesses, counters.

Nowadays, West End Watch Company is active in Saudi Arabia, in the United Arab Emirates, in the Himalaya Range (in particular in Tibet, Nepal and in Bhutan), as well as in the western half of China.

In 2011, West End Watch Company celebrated 125 years of uninterrupted activity. At the beginning of the 20th century West End Watch Company launched a model called the Sowar -the cavalryman- named after one of the elite troops of the Indian army. This name was selected in honor of Sir Thomas Edward Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) because it is said that he and his soldiers wore West End Watch Company watches during the war. The Sowar model is still manufactured today.

Here are some images of West End watches:

Vintage

Modern

Mathey-Tissot

 By Bruce Shawkey

Edmond Mathey-Tissot established his watchmaking business in the village of Les Ponts-de-Martel in 1886. Mathey-Tissot is an independent watchmaker, with headquarters located in Geneva. Mathey-Tissot is not associated with Tissot, another Swiss watchmaking firm.

Mathey-Tissot initially specialized in "repeater" watches, timepieces that chime the hour and half hour. Soon afterwards, the company produced chronographs. During World War I, Mathey-Tissot supplied the United States Army Corps of Engineers with precision chronographs. Gen. John J. Pershing, Commander of the United States Expeditionary Forces, selected Mathey-Tissot as the watch to award to members of his staff.

In addition to its regular business of producing fine watches for jewelers throughout the world, Mathey-Tissot before and during World War II turned out thousands of timepieces for the United States armed forces and the British Navy.

The company is still in business to this day, and maintains a website at www.matheytissot.com. Here are some images of Mathey-Tissot watches through the decades:

Gallet

 By Bruce Shawkey

Gallet can trace its roots all the way back to 1466 when Humbertus Gallet tinkered with various metals and was recoreded in various census records as a horloger or clock maker. The Gallet company went to great pains and expense to trace Gallet's geneology to gain bragging rights as the world's oldest watch company.

But the real story of Gallet began in 1826 when Julien Gallet (1806–1849) founded his company in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland and began distributing pocket watches all across Europe.. In 1855, Julien Gallet's son Léon (1832–1899) further expanded distribution to help meet Europe's increasing demand for watches. In 1864, Léon's brother, Lucien Gallet (1834–1879), established the company's first U.S. location in Chicago, with a New York City office following soon after. Together with Jules Racine, a cousin of the Gallet brothers living in the U.S., the company began its expansion into the American market.

Due to the American consumer's preference for domestically styled products, the Gallet Company created numerous new lines to effectively compete with American brands. While the names that appeared on the dials and the overall appearance and function of these watches were tailored to American tastes, all cases and movements continued to be produced in Gallet's La Chaux-Fonds workshop. Each of the numerous brands were designed to target a different demographic. Lower priced watches were supplied to the average working man, as well as expensive high-grade and complicated timepieces in solid gold cases for the wealthy. By the end of the 19th century, Gallet selling more than 100,000 timepieces per year and was beginning to transition into wrist watches.

I want to take a break here and talk about of the first wristwatches for which Gallet supplied the movements. 

A while ago, my friend Stan Czubernaut found what he believed was one of the first wrist watches ever made. It was made by Gorham Co. for members of the European Mounted Infantry so that the time could be read while riding a horse without the tricky maneuver of pulling out a watch of  the soldier's pocket . A date marking on the underside of the dial was engraved 8/94, which meant the watch had been built in August of 1894. Gorham Co., was located in New York, NY.  They offered the watch for $15. The true identity of the watch movement was Gallet. This beats the old record generally believed to be held by Omega, which is confirmed to have made a man's wristwatch in 1903. Stan completely restored the watch and sold it with what was believed to be the original leather band, as it was sewn right on to the watch. It was quite fragile, as you might expect for being 124 years old, but it was all there, including the buckle. Stan even contacted the Gallet company, and they were anxious to cooperate with Stan's research, but were unable to find anything in their archives. Stan was able to find to find the ad from Gorham in an obscure Wiki-journal that read Gallet made "bracelet watches" for members of the European Mounted Infantry in this year, but none has ever surfaced. Way to flush out those details, Stan!

 OK, back to the history of Gallet:

When the worldwide economic downturn of the 1930s caused international trade to plunge, Gallet changed its focus to the manufacture of professional-use timepieces (hand-held timers and chronograph wristwatches) to allied military and industrial clients during the years leading up to and through World War II. During this period, the Gallet's sales again surpassed 100,000 units annually. A wartime Gallet timepiece of particular renown was the Flight Officer time-zone chronograph, which is still being produced today. Commissioned by Senator Harry S. Truman's senatorial staff in 1939 for the United States Army Air Force, this wristwatch made it possible to calculate changes in the time as a pilot flew across lines of longitude. In Gallet produced the Multichron Petite. The Petite is one of the first wrist chronographs engineered exclusively for enlisted women assigned to technical and scientific tasks during World War II. Powered by the 10 ligne Valjoux 69 movement, and measuring only 26.6mm in diameter, the MultiChron Petite became the smallest mechanical chronograph ever manufactured.

With the end of World War II, and the death of Georges, son Léon Gallet assumes management of the Gallet Company. Only minor changes are needed to transform the appearance of Gallet's military style watches into trendy chronographs for sportsmen and civilian pilots.After the war, Gallet's reputation spread to civilians and professionals in the fields of aviation, sports, medicine, and technology. Their success continues through the '50s and well into the '60s.

The '70s brings with it the quartz crisis, and Gallet is not spared. Upon the death of Léon Gallet (1899–1975), sons Pierre and Bernard assume management of the company. They acquire the Racine Company, which has been struggling as well.

The history of Gallet bounces around from owner to owner for the next couple of decades, but is eventually acquired by David Laurence, who becomes a sort of patron saint for Gallet. He goes to great lengths to restore Gallet's standing in the watchmaking making pantheon. His efforts include sponsoring a temport exhibit at the the National Watch and Clock Museum featuring numerous personal timepieces and accompanying stories of those who have served their countries for the last 250 years. Watches in the exhibit included George Washington's pocket watch, the Gallet chronograph worn by Fred Gerretson while serving as war photographer during the Invasion of Normandy, and the Gallet wristwatch worn by 2nd LT James Richard Hoel when his plane was shot down in the Netherlands by the Germans during WWII. Hoel was sent to the prison camp Stalag Luft III, about 100 miles southeast of Berlin, which was portrayed in the 1963 movie "The Great Escape". He was among the imprisoned officers who helped dig the tunnels as depicted in the movie.

With the support and assistance of David R. Laurence, NAWCC installs a permanent exhibit entitled "At Arm's Length: The History of the Wristwatch". The exhibit provides a comprehensive view of the evolution of the wristwatch, from the small pocket watches that were first strapped to the wrist in leather holders, through the numerous technological advancements in wristwatch functionality during the 20th century, and concluding with the wrist-worn timekeeping marvels of the present day. 

let's look at some of Gallet's wrist watches through the decades.