Beginner's Guide to Watch Collecting

By Bruce Shawkey

Beginner's Guide to Watch collecting

Watch collecting is a captivating hobby that combines art, engineering, and history. For beginners, it offers a journey through time, where each watch tells a unique story. Whether you're drawn to the intricate mechanics of vintage timepieces or the sleek design of modern watches, starting a collection can be both rewarding and educational. Here’s a guide to help you navigate the fascinating world of watch collecting and avoid some of the pitfalls, of which there are a few.

Understanding Your Interests

Before diving into watch collecting, it's essential to identify what aspects of watches captivate you. Here are a few common areas of interest:

Vintage Watches: These are timepieces that are at least 20-30 years old. They often have historical significance and showcase the craftsmanship of past eras. This is my own specialty, to which I'll devote most of this guide.

Military Watches: Perhaps no other type of watch has grown in popularity in recent years than watches made for the Army, Navy, and other branches of the military, both United States and other countries of the world.

Modern Watches: Contemporary watches feature cutting-edge technology and innovative designs.

Comic and Character Watches: There's the watch that started it all, the 1933 Ingersoll Mickey Mouse, but now just about every comic character you could imagine from Aquaman to Zorro has been depicted in a watch. Keep in mind that these watches were designed as children's toys and were not built to keep accurate time nor to last. Still, if you are nostalgic for characters such as Bugs Bunny or Porky Pig, character watches may just be your cup of tea.

Luxury Watches: Brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet are known for their high-quality materials, precision, and status. If you have the money and want to collect these watches, I suggest you consult a different guide, because these brands of watches have never been my specialty. I'm all about watches that are affordable by the person of average means.

Affordable Watches: There are many well-made watches that are budget-friendly, perfect for starting a collection without a hefty investment.

Specific Functions: Some collectors focus on watches with particular complications (features) like chronographs, moonphases, or diving capabilities. This raises the stakes on affordability, but collecting complicated watches can still be done, though I urge beginners to start out collecting simple "time-only" pieces until they have a further grasp of the mechanics of watches.

Now, all that said, there's nothing wrong with collecting different types of watches. Many collector guides encourage you to specialize right away, But I encourage you to learn about and collect all types of watches. For example, walking into a thrift store, you might see a tray of mixed watches, some old, some new. I would encourage you to at least consider buying some of the watches that are outside your specific area of interest. They will all help you increase your knowledge of the hobby, and they may be used for trading with other collectors whose interests may differ from yours.

Next step, educate yourself

Research Brands and Models. One of my mentors, Roy Ehrhardt (who has since passed away) said it best: "Buy the book first, then buy the watch." There are many great resources out there that go into much greater detail than my guide. The Shugart/Engle Price Guide is still the standard in my opinion, though it hasn't been published in years. The latest guide (2001) is available online at https://archive.org/details/completepricegui0000shug_p4w3, for a fee to download. You can also find used hard copies online. The Roy Ehrhardt price and identification guides are also good and available second-hand at the usual sources. But the Shugart guide is better because it contains introductory chapters on terminology, how a mechanical watch works, and so forth. Familiarize yourself with various watch brands and their iconic models. Books, online forums, and watch enthusiast websites are valuable resources. YouTube is a veritable wealth of information, but be aware there are good videos and bad videos where the so-called "experts" narrating the videos are simply promoting their own websites.

Watch clubs and associations can also be a great source of help and education. The premiere organization for watch enthusiasts is the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors. Headquarters are in Columbia, Penn., and there are regional chapters all across the United States (and a few International chapters as well). Numerous educational events and buy/sell/trade marts are held throughout the year. You can find them online at www.nawcc.org. I have been a member for over 40 years, and the rewards have been innumerable. I realize that many collectors are "lone wolves" and don't like to join clubs, but I truly believe you are missing out on a great opportunity by going it alone. 

Understand Watch Movements: Watches can be powered by windup mechanical (require daily winding), automatic (still mechanical, though with daily wearing, will stay wound on their own by the tiny motions of the arm and wrist), or quartz (battery powered) movements. Each type has its own pluses and minuses.

Learn Watch Terminology: Terms like bezel, crown, dial, and lume are essential for understanding the details and features of a watch.

Starting Your Collection

Once you've identified your interests and educated yourself, it's time to start building your collection.

First, A couple of easy rules to remember:

1. Don’t think that your purchase is an investment. Your purpose is to have fun. Set a budget, and don't waiver from it, at least until you accumulate a better knowledge of watches. If you want an investment, buy stocks, bonds, or mutual funds, not watches.

2. Vintage watches are NEVER water-proof. And many are not shockproof. Don't shower with them, garden with them, chop wood, etc.

Set a Budget: Determine how much you're willing to spend on your first few pieces. It's easy to get carried away, so having a budget helps keep your spending in check.

This hobby DOESN'T need to be expensive. I know of many good Swiss and American watch brands that can be found easily for under $50 and sometimes WAY under if they are found at thrift stores. Some good, less expensive brands are Elgin, Gruen, Roamer, Waltham, Hamilton, Enicar, and Seiko.

Where to buy

Where do you find watches to buy? The simple answer is "all over." But I will offer some of the more obvious places where I have found watches.

Friends and relatives. Ask around. Parents, grandparents, friends (particularly older friends) may have watches laying around in sock drawers or jewelry boxes that they may just give you.

Garage sales. This can often be hit or or miss, but can yield a gem once in a while. If no watches are displayed at the sale, ask the person(s) in charge if they have any old watches laying around. Concentrate on garage sales in older neighborhoods with older residents.

Estate sales. Get there early. The choicest goods are the first to go.

Flea markets. Some parts of the country are better than others for these. Florida, for example, is a haven for flea markets.

Antique malls. Look for vendors who deal in "smalls" versus those who deal in furniture and other large pieces.

Coin shops. Coin dealers often deal in "tangible assets" other than coins. These include watches.

Thrift stores. Places like Goodwill, St. Vincent de Paul, Salvation Army, and others can sometimes yield treasures.

Pawn brokers. These can often be hit or miss. The pawn brokers I have found are almost universally out to screw uneducated buyers for as much money as they can get. That said, some pawn brokers are solid business people who will work with honest collectors who don't try to take advantage of them.

Pickers. Pickers are people who shop for other people at garage sales and flea markets and then resell to their "clients." Quality can vary. Treat your picker(s) honestly and try to educate them on what to buy and what to avoid.

EBay. I urge you to stay clear of eBay until you have a good knowledge of the ins and outs of collecting. There is a reason many collectors refer to eBay as "the swamp," in reference to the many questionable activities that take place there. Don't get me wrong. There are many fine watch sellers on eBay. Look for those who have a feedback rating of at least 95 percent. Ebay offers "buyer protection" from less than scrupulous sellers, but do you really want to be spending your time (and money) returning watches that are not described properly? Terms such as "minty" and "excellent condition" are very subjective. "Just serviced" can also be deceiving. Serviced by whom? Was it just a little squirt of WD-40 to get the watch ticking, or a full disassembly of all the parts with a cleaning in an ultrasonic machine? You just don't know.

Next, we need to talk about servicing. Vintage watches will inevitably require servicing if you expect them to keep accurate time (plus/minus 2 minutes per day or better). This need not be an issue if you are simply accumulating watches for their "look" and don't really need them to keep accurate time, or even run at all for that matter. If you want them serviced, this will likely be an issue, because there is an acute shortage of watchmakers, and those who are still in the service business typically charge $100 and up just to clean a watch, and more if parts are required. It makes no sense to find a $5 watch at a thrift store and then spend $100 (and up) to have it serviced.

OK, let's talk about other specifics/guidelines that will get your hobby off to a good start.

If you think you’ve stumbled upon a great find, WAIT, do some research on your own and/or and ask people more knowledgeable. Often, this cannot be done if you are in a thrift store or at a garage sale where you must make an instant decision to buy or pass on the sale, but use your best judgment. If the watch in question is $5 or $10, then there is not much to lose. But if it's $50, or $100, or more, do some research. Or if the seller won't wait, simply pass on the sale.

Generally speaking, DON’T purchase a watch that appears to need major repair. This dovetails with the above about the shortage of reasonably priced watchmakers. This includes watches that look water damaged, rusty, etc. If the watch looks good cosmetically but doesn't run, be aware that the few small parts needed to make it run properly may be expensive and/or hard to find. Again, this may not be an issue if you are buying the watch simply for its look.

While I wouldn't advise trying to service your own watches, it is helpful to own a few basic tools that will come in handy to get your watches in "wearable" condition. One is a set of fine jewelers' screwdrivers. They are invaluable for tightening loose stem/crowns, etc. A good sharp folding knife is useful for removing old watch bands and putting new ones on, whether they be metal or leather. YouTube videos on these simple tasks are readily available. 

Finally, I want to say a thing or two about Frankenwatches and counterfeits.

In a word, avoid both of them. A Frankenwatch is a watch pieced together from multiple watches (like the monster pieced together from multiple humans), usually to the disadvantage of the buyer. An example would be someone taking a movement from one watch, putting a different dial on it, and putting it (or forcing it) in a different case. 

As for counterfeits, KNOW the watch you are buying and who you are buying from. Even if you KNOW they are counterfeit, don't buy them to resell or trade. Do research on what things should look and feel like. Higher end brands are the general target for this, especially Rolex. It is said there are more counterfeit Rolexes out there than there are real ones. The cheap counterfeits are fairly easy to spot, and these are the ones that typically end up at thrift shops, antique malls, etc. The old adage holds true here: If it looks too good to be true, it probably is.

This short introduction should get you well on your way to collecting and enjoying watches. It is certainly more information than I had when I started collecting. Many lessons were hard won and costly, but it was all worth it. This hobby has brought me immense pleasure and satisfaction. And some of the finest people I have met and become close friends with have been fellow watch collectors.

Feel free to avail yourself of my extensive library of brand histories found along the right-hand side of the blog. There are over 200 entries. Just click on any date, and the contents will be displayed for you to click on.

Early Wristwatches

 By Bruce Shawkey

Browsing through the Library of Congress's vast archive of books online, I found an interesting book on the history of timekeeping, from caveman days to dawn of the wristwatch. The book was published in 1919 as the nations were involved, to one degree another, in WWI. The author, Harry Chase Brearley (1870-1940), was active/lived in New York. The book was conceived and sponsored by the Ingersoll Family as a celebration of their then 25 years of watchmaking. They commissioned Brearley to write the book based on his reputation as a fairly well known writer, with several non-fiction books to his credit. The book was published by Doubleday.

 The final chapter deals with dawn of the wristwatch. Excerpts and illustrations follow.

Many a soldier waited in the darkness
for the perilous moment to go "over the
top" with his eyes fixed upon the luminous
hands and figures of his Ingersoll Radiolite.

Then came the World War, and the wristwatch which had been often ridiculed as effeminate (although it is hard to explain why, since it was first adopted as an obvious convenience in the Army and on the hunting field — two of the most masculine spheres of activity it would be possible to imagine) was seen at once to be the most easy means of knowing the time in actual warfare. Millions of watches, consequently, were strapped to wrists of soldiers and sailors, and the obvious advantages of the luminous dial placed it in enormous demand.

Factory facilities producing an average of twenty thousand accurate watches a day; distribution facilities including the cooperation of a voluntary "chain-store system of more than one hundred thousand independent retailers, all operating upon a common plan and under common prices; a product that has come into the most wide-spread use not only throughout the United States but in the farthest regions of the inhabited earth — which has, in fact, in itself served to turn back the tide by which watches formerly flowed from Europe into America, so that it now proceeds from our shores toward those of Europe and other lands; a name which has become as well known as any in commercial and industrial life, and better than all, the appreciable raising of the efficiency of the human race through universally promoting the watch-carrying habit and putting fifty million timepieces into service.

The wristwatch on the bottom is Swiss, maker not specified, but very typical of early wristwatches.

Rolex

By Bruce Shawkey

As most of my followers know, I am not a huge fan of Rolex. With a few notable exceptions, I believe they are vastly over-rated. But I do concede that their history is interesting. Company founder Hans Wilsdorf (left) is said to have created a name that was short, easy to pronounce in any language, and memorable. He is said to have come up with the name "Rolex" because it sounded like the sound a watch makes when it's wound (I don't know about that; I don't know of any watch that sounds like "Rolex" when it is wound!).

However the name came about, Wilsdorf created one of most recognizable brand names in history. It ranks up there with the likes of Coca Cola and McDonalds. Ask anyone what a Rolex is, and they will tell you it is a watch.

Rolex traces it roots back to 1905 when Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis founded the brand. They focused on producing high-quality wristwatches at a time when pocketwatches were still the norm. They claim to have invented the self-winding movement, but that credit belongs to John Harwood, who came out with his invention in 1926. Rolex actually had to apologize for their misstep in the 1950s. I concede they made some of their calibers, but most of their calibers are ebauches from ETA and other manufacturers. Some of their more famous models include the Submariner, Daytona, and Datejust. The brand has also been associated with exploration and adventure, with Rolex watches accompanying adventurers to the highest peaks and the deepest oceans.

Rolex was one of the first watch companies to utilize brand ambassadors. It started in 1927 with Mercedes Gleitz (right), who swam the English Channel in 10 hours wearing a Rolex Oyster watch. Others who have worn a Rolex watch include Winston Churchill, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Arnold Palmer and skier Jean-Claude Killy.

Rolex watches have appeared in numerous movies over the decades, most notably the James Bond movies, appearing first in Dr. No in 1962. They lost out to Omega in Casino Royale when Daniel Craig took over the lead role.

Roles is notoriously secretive about its business practices, but in a receipt article in Europa Star magazine, several secrets were revealed about the company's plan for sustainability, previously reserved for internal staff only.

* Reclamation of gold and other precious metals. 

* Paper and plastic products used in presentation and shipping boxes, instructions, warranty cards, etc.

* Reducing travel by company employees, by auto and by air to reduce emissions of greenhouse gasses.

* Financially supporting various environmental groups. Through the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the company has helped protect 48 endangered species, planted 33 million trees, and preserved 32 major ecosystems, including 57,600 sq. km. of Amazon rainforest. Hans Wilsdorf could have never imagined his company involved in such activities.

Misc. ads

Tissot

By Bruce Shawkey

 

Tissot was founded by Charles-Felicien Tissot and his son Charles-Emile. Charles-Felicien, born in 1804, had been a Tissot watchmaker in the Jura region of Switzerland. His son, Charles-Emile, born in 1830,  apprenticed as a watchmaker in his father's workshop beginning at age 12. It must have been in his blood to be a watchmaker because he completed his training very quickly and, in 1848 at the relatively young age of 18, sailed across the ocean to America at the request of an uncle to repair timepieces there.  Quickly becoming excited over the possibility of supplying new markets with timepieces, young Charles-Emile was not content to stay in America repairing other manufacturers' watches. And so five years later, he returned to Switzerland and convinced his father to go into business supplying watches with the family name to the world.

Thus, in 1853, the firm of Ch. F. Tissot & Fils. was born in the city of Le Locle. The father tended to the home fires, overseeing production, while the son handled the marketing.  Over the course of the next 43 years, Charles Emile would undertake no fewer than 52 journeys to North America and Russia. The greater market potential at the time (pre-revolution) was Russia, so Charles Emile concentrated his efforts there. Only one rail line operated during this time, from Moscow to St. Petersburg, so Charles Emile often traveled to the far reaches of Russia by troika, a Russian carriage pulled by a team of three horses. Considering his fragile and precious cargo - consisting of watches bearing not only his family name but other luxury Swiss timepieces including Audemars Piguet - it was a perilous way to travel to say the least! Through the son's industrious efforts and carefully chosen alliances with sales agents, Tissot would eventually earn the prestigious title of “Purveyor to the Tsar's Court.”

In 1873, when Charles Felicien died, his widow watched over the company at home while Charles-Emile continued to travel and develop new markets. By 1883, Charles-Emile brought his son, Charles Tissot, then age 23, into the business. For the next two decades, son and grandson would continue to develop the business and earn awards for their watches in various prestigious competitions throughout Europe, while still concentrating their sales efforts in Russia.

Birth of the wristwatch

As with many manufacturers, we do not know exactly when Tissot began to market wristwatches. Some historians have suggested that Tissot began experimenting with wrist watches as early as 1900. Others say Tissot's first commercially produced wristwatches for women came out in 1911 or '12, with men's wristwatches following in about 1915. The men's watches were classic round shapes, many with a decidedly “military” look as seen on the image to the left.

At this point, I should make a clarification. There is some confusion between Tissot watches and those manufactured by Mathey-Tissot. They are totally different manufacturers, with the latter being founded in 1886 by Edmund Mathey-Tissot. 

Soon after 1915, Tissot came out with a long curved rectangular dress watch (right) that modern-day

collectors refer to as the “Banana Watch.” Originals were fragile and today are scarce. Tissot has, in fact, reproduced this model as part of its “Heritage,” series and is called the Prince. With its “exploding” numerals, it is a very striking watch to this day. I own a copy and it is one of the few watches on which I get compliments from non-collectors, and they are surprised to learn the watch design if more than 100 years old!

Charles-Emile passed away in 1910. At that time, the fourth generation joined the firm when Charles' son, Paul, joined the business. At the relatively young age of 20 years, Paul would soon become instrumental in the company's future. Paul's sister, Marie Tissot, also joined the company during this time (1916) and would become instrumental in her own right as to the company's future.

Things would begin to change radically for Tissot soon enough. The success Tissot had enjoyed in Russia was about to end. With the revolution of 1917, the watch market in Russia virtually collapsed overnight. Tissot would have to find new markets, and their approach to this would be ingenious, as we will soon see. But prior to embarking on a new marketing strategy, Charles, son Paul and daughter Marie first concentrated on the manufacturing process itself. Tissot began producing their own watch movements in their spacious and modern facilities (updated in 1908) to reduce their dependence on ebauches (rough movements) from other manufacturers.

The clear leader to emerge during this time was Paul. His strong personality, along with production improvements, brought him attention from many watch manufacturers, but in particular the Brandt family which owned and operated Omega. The two formed an alliance in the early 1920s that would more than compensate Tissot for its lost market in Russia. That alliance would also irrevocably fuse the two companies in the eyes of jewelers, the buying public and, eventually, collectors. In 1925, Paul was made a director of Omega and, in 1929, the companies officially merged. Omega, which had already established a stronghold in the United States, became the distributing agent for Tissot. It is ironic how, today, many collectors think of Tissot as a “poor-man's Omega” because for many decades Tissot was promoted as the “higher-end” watch while Omega covered the “lower luxury” market.

The streamlining that had begun in the 1920 continued, so that at one point, Tissot offered 42 different models of watches using only five different cases. Examples of these can be seen below:

This period also saw technical innovation. For example, during the 1930s, Tissot introduced the industry's first anti-magnetic watch - a revolutionary development that would eventually benefit the entire watch industry. Magnetism is a watch movement's invisible enemy, eventually causing it to run erratically. During the late '30s, Tissot also introduced a water-resistant case that utilized clips to hold the back to the case. Later case designs would use screws in the back of the watch in conjunction with metal tabs that would “squeeze” the back to the case. Other innovations would follow, which I will discuss in a moment.

While Omega and Tissot tried their best to keep their brands distinct through the coming decades, the inevitable melding of the two did occur. It is possible (though not common), for example, to find watches during the 1930s - 1950s, that are signed both Omega and Tissot on the dial (left). Other Tissot models shared basic movement calibers with Omega watches, particularly chronographs which tended to utilize ebauches as a basic platform.

Many ladies' watches of the period (1930s - '40s) meanwhile, took on a more sporty/athletic look. Many had sweep seconds or auxiliary seconds hands, almost unheard of in ladies' watches of the day, except for nurses. This suggests that Tissot was appealing to a wider market than just the “watch-as-jewelry” look emphasized by other manufactures.

As mentioned previously, the collaboration of Tissot and Omega that began in 1925 was formalized in 1930 when the company entered into a community of interests that led to the foundation of the Societe Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogere S.A. (SSIH), headquartered in Geneva. In 1932, SSIH was joined by Lemania which effectively supplied the consortium (though not exclusively) with chronograph ebauches.  Another consortium of watchmakers, ASUAG, which was formed in 1931, would eventually figure into Tissot's future. In 1983, the two consortiums would merge to form SMH which would eventually become the Swatch Group Ltd. So today, Tissot is part of Swatch which, through the years and through various mergers and acquisitions, has become the umbrella corporation for some 20 watch and jewelry brands and is the largest manufacturer and distributor of finished watches in the world.

During the years that led to the end of Tissot as an independent company, Marie Tissot played an integral part. Born in Moscow, the sister of Paul Tissot joined the company in 1916 as an administrator, as previously mentioned. But eventually she would take over the whole accounting department. She is said to have given the company a “soul.”  She created the social department in Tissot, as well as a trust fund which benefited not only workers (male AND female), but their widows and orphans. It was one of the first companies to take on such a responsibility to the workers and their families. But at the same time, Marie was a staunch business woman, and all the construction and modifications to the factory required her assent before they could commence. Certainly, she was a woman ahead of her time and an anomaly in the male-dominated business world at that time, especially in Switzerland. She died in 1980 at age 83.

Her brother, Paul, meanwhile, passed away in 1951 at the relatively young age of 61 while at the top of his career at Tissot. After Paul's death, his cousin, Edouard-Louis Tissot (born 1896), already member of the  board of directors of the SSIH group, agreed to come back to Switzerland and to take over the management of Tissot, together with Marie. He had studied as an electrical engineer in Switzerland and since 1924 was as an engineer in Argentina, where he founded the “Compagnie Suisse-Argentine d'Electricité.” He died in 1977.

Luc Tissot, the son of  Edouard-Louis, born in 1937, also an engineer, was the last managing director of Tissot. He left the company in 1981 approximately two years before the merger of SSIH and ASUAG. As you can see, Tissot was a company steeped in family history.

 The watches

I have discussed some of the innovative watches introduced by Tissot through the 1930s. And many more were to come. Let’s take a look at some of their watches up to the start of WWII. 

Tissot Militar

At the outbreak of World War II, Tissot introduced a watch called the Militar (left). Though Tissot to my knowledge never formally contracted with the allied forces, the manual-wind Militar was nevertheless popular with soldiers who were not issued a military watch. The watches were often better quality than those issued by the military and may have even served as a “preferred timepiece” for soldiers who were given government-issued wristwatches! The Militar was eventually offered in automatic version, and was a popular model well into the 1960s as a “no-nonsense” watch.

In 1942, Tissot came out with a watch that is today one of the more collectible of Tissot watches - the Mediostat. It has an independent large sweep second hand that starts, stops and resets with the use a single pusher button. A constant seconds hands is located on

Tissot Mediostat

a subsidiary chapter at 6:00. Elapsed time of up to one minute can be measured, or longer if the user can remember how many times the large second hand has traversed the circumference of the dial. The watch was pitched to physicians, where it proved quite useful for taking patients' pulses. But technicians, scientists, and so forth could also make use of this feature. The model was even touted during the second world war years as a useful watch for artillery men, bombardiers and so forth to measure time between bomb launch and detonation.

At this point, we’ll take a look at some Tissot watches from a rare 1943 catalog from my collection. The text appears to be in Swiss German. While there are no military watches, per se, some of the watches have a military look to them.

 

 

In 1944, Tissot introduced its first automatic watch using the Caliber 28-family of movements which bore an almost exact likeness to the Omega Caliber 340 family. For eight years, Tissot automatics utilized a bumper pendulum until 1952 when they were replaced with full rotor pendulums.

Eventually, many of Tissot's automatic watches took on the initials “PR” in their reference. The first in the PR series was the “PR516” manufactured in 1956. The PR has stood for several meanings over the years, including Precision Resistance, Particularly Resistant, and Precise and Robust.

One caliber in particular, launched in 1951, the 28.5N-21, became the platform for what is arguably Tissot's most famous vintage wristwatch.  In 1953, the company used this caliber in a revolutionary new watch, called the Navigator (left). It is easy to spot, because an independent inner dial contains cities of the world printed vertically on it. It has a very unique operation. Pulling out the crown releases the inner dial with the cities printed on them. Turning the crown turns the cities dial. Turn until the city in your location is aligned with the numeral 24 on the outer dial. Then, press the pusher button (on some models a pin is required). This disengages the inner dial and allows you to set the correct local time. Push the crown in, the pusher button again pops back out, and the watch works in its normal mode. Time can then be seen in cities around the world relative to local time. The watch was made until 1960, at which time the caliber was discontinued as well. It is a rare watch indeed, and the few times one comes up for sale it is usually with high-profile auction houses such as Sotheby's or Christies. Tissot offered a true reproduction of the Navigator a few years back, cased in 18kt gold, with a production of 100 pieces. 

The 1960s and beyond

The 1960s were turbulent times for the watch industry, as mainstream manufactures struggled to compete against the onslaught of  the throw-away watches by Timex (pin-lever) and the cheaper jeweled-lever imports. Tissot made a gallant effort to remain a premium watch.

But no watch manufacture remained immune from the public's taste for cheap watches.

Tissot, like everyone else, looked for ways to lower the cost of production. A breakthrough occurred in 1969 when Tissot rolled out its first “Sideral” model (right). The case was made of plastic reinforced with fiberglass. The name Sideral was a marketing ploy and referred to sidereal time, which is time based on the rotation of the earth with reference to the background of the stars. For example, a sidereal day is the exact time required for a complete revolution of the earth, which is equivalent to 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4.09 seconds in terms of solar mean time, which is the standard unit of time measure (i.e., 24 hours in a day). Of course, the watch does not keep sidereal time. It was simply Tissot's attempt to come with a catchy name. The first in the Sideral series of plastic-cased watches was an automatic model, but was followed by electric and chronograph models as well. Models often have an inset screw on the back to fine-tune the time. This eliminates the need to open the case for routine timing adjustments. The initial price of the automatic model was 105 Swiss francs, equivalent to about $24 U.S. dollars at the time. That was about half the price of the most basic man's Tissot model cased in metal.

Two years later, in 1971, Tissot would carry this innovation one step further by introducing a watch with a plastic movement called the Astrolon or, in some cases, the “Sytal,” an acronym for “Systeme Total d'Autolubrification.” The majority of the parts - wheels, pinions, escapement, and plates - were all cast from plastic, and much of the watch movement was machine-assembled. The only metal components were the balance assembly, the mainspring, barrel, and the winding mechanism. Various parts of the movement are red, white, and blue - a nice touch. The number of parts were reduced from 90 in a conventional movement to 52. Because the movement was self-lubricating, the word “Autolub” was added to some models. The caliber designations were 2250, 2270 (date) and 2280 (day and date). One very distinctive model, the “Idea 2001,” was housed in a clear plastic case so the movement was visible. Most of the models had cases that were sealed. Furthermore, the movements could not be disassembled; they had to simply be replaced. Priced from $22.50 to as low as $8, they were designed as throw-away watches, only better, according to Tissot. The watch withstood normal water immersion tests to 30 psi, and Tissot's engineers claimed that the timepiece could compete with a chronometer for accuracy and reliability.  Some models were eventually made with cases that could be taken apart, so that the movement could at least be swapped out if problems arose. The watch, however, faced several problems, not the least of which was the introduction of commercially viable quartz watches. The Astrolon project was soon dropped and today, the watches (in particular, the Idea 2001 model) are quite collectible. 

Some collectors believe the Astrolon was the forerunner to the Swatch Watch, introduced in 1983. While there are many similarities, I still place the Astrolon in a separate category, since it still relied on a mechanical movement while Swatch Watches, at least initially, were strictly quartz watches (through many mechanical Swatch models were eventually and continue to be released).

The trend toward making cases out of nontraditional materials would continue into the 1980s, as Tissot introduced watches with cases made of granite, mother of pearl, wood, and ceramic.

In 1996, the company introduced the Autoquartz, with the ETA Caliber 205.111 movement. It is a hybrid between mechanical and quartz watch, like the Seiko Kinetic. But the similarities end there. The mechanics work in a totally different manner.

The company has made a marvelous comeback from its days of making “throw-away” watches, due in part to the renaissance of the Swiss watch industry as a whole. The public's taste has turned around to more durable goods of all kinds, which translates to better quality watches.  Today, the Tissot line is divided into several categories ranging from the “vintage look” to watches that appeal to those on the leading edge of technology.

Perhaps the most impressive watch to come out of the "techy" category is Tissot's “T-Touch” touch Screen watch. Introduced in 1999, the company claims it was the first watch with a touch-sensitive dial. Various functions of the watch are activated by touching the crystal of the watch. The watch was available in either stainless or titanium case. I lost track of all the functions back in 2014 when T-Touch had been increased to 25 different functions! 

Doxa Releases Limited Edition Sub 300T

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star magazine: 

Doxa channels its adventurous spirit through the fictional world of Clive Cussler, the acclaimed American adventure novelist. Cussler wrote over 85 books, selling more than 100 million copies, and discovered scores of shipwrecks through the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), the non-profit organization he founded in 1979. His books were adapted for the big screen twice: Raise the Titanic (1980) and Sahara (2005) Cusslet's novels were highly influential in showcasing Doxa to the world. The watch's iconic orange dial helped the famed fictional adventure hero, Dirk Pitt, to accurately read the time during his deadline-driven diving missions. This latest SUB 300T aged dial resembles a nautical artefact. Each watch is individually serial numbered. A percentage of sales from this special edition Clive Cussler watch will be donated to NUMA. Additionally, the names of shipwrecks and other historical artefacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA up to 2022 are engraved on the back of the SUB 300T. The watch sells for CHF 2,590, about $2,840. The Sub 300T was introduced in 1968.

Angelus Releases New Chronodate

 By Bruce Shawkey

From Europa Star Magazine

Angelus introduced a new Chronodate with a new, greyish shade of blue. Housed in a 42.5mm satin-finished, modular multi-structure titanium case, it pairs seamlessly with a matching titanium bracelet and features two large black counters.

The Chronodate recalls the brand’s historical roots since Angelus was a manufacturer of first-rate chronographs from the 1940s onwards. They were small in diameter to cater to the tastes of the time. Their counters stood out, appearing particularly large and visible. It was therefore logical for Angelus to give today’s Chronodate substantial counters that allow for optimal readability.

Inside the Chronodate Angelus has incorporated its own chronograph movement, the self-winding 26-jewel calibre A-500. It features the small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. A peripheral pointer date hand travels around the dial. On titanium bracelet (also available with rubber strap), the watch sells for CHF 24,900 incl. tax about $27,300.

Angelus came out with its famous Chronodate in 1942. It quickly became the company's top-selling watch.

History of Watch Advertising

 Interesting article in Europa Star magazine on the history of watch advertising. We start in 1900 and end in 1989. The article goes further than this, all the way to 2023. But my interest pretty much ends with 1989.

1900 saw the emergence of wrist watches to a skeptical public. Why wear a watch on your arm, exposing it to shocks and the vagaries of the weather, when you can rely on a tried and tested, well-protected pocket watch? Consequently, the pocket watch maintained its market dominance.

But the rise of the wristwatch was unstoppable, punctuated by World War I, which rendered the pocket watch impractical. Also, events bolstered the wrist watch's image. The Swiss Fair in Geneva (1920), the Paris Exhibition (1925 – famously known as the birthplace of the Art Deco style), and the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona (1929) celebrated the fusion of technology and artistry jewelry and made the wristwatch an acceptable timekeeper for men. Athletes, explorers, aviators, and show business stars.

1930-1939

The watchmaking industry reacted to the Great Depression of the early 1930s with remarkable inventiveness.  The first effective shock-proof device (Incabloc) and models with “armored” cases dispelled the remaining notions about the fragility of wristwatches. Rolex combined the Perpetual automatic movement with its waterproof Oyster case; Mimo introduced a model with a digital date display; and Breitling launched the two-pusher chronograph.

1940-1949

The first half of the decade was impacted by the war. The demand for precision instruments from all countries in conflict provided a significant boost to the Swiss watchmaking industry, which, despite supply challenges, accounted for one-third of national exports and 86% of the global market. Manufacturing focused on products suitable for military use, and advertising reflected this, while emphasizing that robustness and reliability were equally important in civilian life.

1950 - 1959

The “tool watch” graced the wrists of explorers, mountaineers, pilots and divers as they shattered records of all kinds. Feats such as expeditions to Mount Everest and descents into the depths in the bathyscaphe Trieste captivated the public’s attention and imagination. Manufacturers recognized the commercial potential of these events and advertised tool watches tailored to those who aspired to emulate the heroes of the moment. The burgeoning popularity of scuba diving spurred the production of timepieces resistant to water pressure (Rolex, Blancpain). Pilots and air travelers could rely on models boasting dual time zones, world time, and calculation functions (Breitling, Movado, Tissot). There were watches for fishermen (Heuer), hikers (Sandoz) and professionals or, more modestly, folks who just wanted a watch suited an active lifestyle.

1960-1969

The watch of the space age”: that was how Bulova introduced the Accutron, which used a tuning fork instead of a balance wheel as its regulating organ, kicking off the electronics revolution.

While its role in NASA missions was limited to being an on-board timer, the more traditional Omega Speedmaster – a mechanical chronograph – handled the harsh conditions of outer space. The Speedmaster became a bestseller, partly thanks to ads that highlighted its connection to the astronauts’ adventures.

1970-1979

In April 1970, the quartz wristwatch arrived in Switzerland. No fewer than 21 models were unveiled simultaneously, all powered by the Beta 21 movement from the Centre Electronique Horloger.

Initially, the revolution appeared to be purely technological, as the prices of these watches were comparable to luxury products. However, within a few short years, the cost of electronic modules plummeted, triggering a race to the bottom in which Japan and Hong Kong were the clear front runners.

1980-1989

Swatch: the name alone evokes not just a manufacturing and aesthetic revolution, but also a commercial and lifestyle phenomenon, the rebirth of the Swiss watch industry after years of struggle, and new, creative, non-conformist communication methods.

The enormous yellow watch stretched across a Frankfurt skyscraper’s façade, the vibrant and playful advertising, and the association with youth-centered events like the World Breakdance Championship.